Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [191]
1517 Shattuck Ave. (btw. Cedar and Vine). 510/548-5525 for main restaurant reservations, 548-5049 for cafe reservations. Fax 510/548-0140. www.chezpanisse.com. Reservations required for the dining room and taken 1 month prior to calendar date requested. Reservations are recommended for the cafe, but walk-ins are welcome. Restaurant fixed-price menu $75–$95; cafe main courses $15–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Restaurant seatings Mon–Sat 6–6:30pm and 8:30–9:15pm most times of the year (in slower months, like Jan–Mar, times vary; please call to confirm). Cafe Mon–Thurs 11:30am–3pm and 5–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–3:30pm and 5–11:30pm. BART: Downtown Berkeley. From I-80 N., take the University Ave. exit and turn left onto Shattuck Ave.
Alice Waters.
Meritage ★★★ CALIFORNIAN/FRENCH In the trendy Claremont Spa & Resort, which recently underwent a very pricey remodel, this restaurant (formerly Jordan’s) reopened at the close of 2009 to much acclaim and attention. With good reason—Chez Panisse aside, it’s one of the only spots east of the Bay Bridge where you’ll find such bold fare. Boasting contemporary Californian cuisine in a classy French setting (minus the pretention), Meritage has many fine attributes, but its pièce de résistance is the world-class wine list. Crafted around the chef’s menu—which largely relies on the crops and stocks of local farmers and purveyors—each wine is paired to perfection with a suggested dish. While Meritage carries 190 selections from around the world, the focal point is on Northern California wines, and 18 types are offered by the 3- or 6-ounce glass. Executive chef Josh Thomsen, who has been in the kitchen of some of the state’s best dining establishments, including Yountville’s French Laundry, L.A.’s Hotel Bel Air, and the Lodge at Pebble Beach, helms the restaurant. Best of all: All courses are served in either half- or full-size portions, so you can sample several, and divided into categories by wine, such as “spicy and earthy reds” or “full-bodied whites.” Do yourself a favor and check into one of the Claremont’s upgraded rooms for the night so you can enjoy yourself to the fullest and not worry about stumbling home at evening’s end.
41 Tunnel Rd. (inside the Claremont). 800/551-7266. www.meritageclaremont.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $13–$37. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Restaurant Mon–Sat 6:30–11am; Tues–Sat 6–11pm. Lounge Mon–Sat 5–11pm; Sat 11am–2:30pm; Sun 6:30am–1:30pm.
MODERATE
Cafe Rouge ★ MEDITERRANEAN After cooking at San Francisco’s renowned Zuni Cafe for 10 years, chef-owner Marsha McBride launched her own restaurant, a sort of Zuni East. She brought former staff members with her, and now her sparse, loftlike dining room serves salads, rotisserie chicken with oil and thyme, grilled lamb chops, steaks, and homemade sausages. East Bay carnivores are especially happy with the burger; like Zuni’s, it’s top-notch. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday are $1 oyster nights from 5:30 to 9:30pm. During warm days, outdoor dining overlooking the shopping square is ideal.
1782 Fourth St. (btw. Delaware and Hearst). 510/525-1440. www.caferouge.net. Reservations recommended. Main courses $12–$36. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm; Tues–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 5–9:30pm; brunch Sun 10am–2:30pm.
Rivoli ★★ CALIFORNIAN One of the favored dinner destinations in the East Bay, Rivoli offers top-notch food at amazingly reasonable prices. Aside from a few house favorites, the menu changes entirely every 3 weeks to feature whatever’s freshest and in season; the wine list follows suit, with around 10 by-the-glass options handpicked to match the food. While many love it, I’m not a fan of the portobello-mushroom fritter, a gourmet variation of the fried zucchini stick. However, plenty of dishes shine, including chicken cooked with prosciutto di Parma, wild mushroom chard and ricotta cannelloni, Marsala jus, snap peas, and baby carrots;