Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [192]
1539 Solano Ave. 866/496-2489 or 510/526-2542. www.rivolirestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri 5:30–10pm; Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9pm.
INEXPENSIVE
Cafe Fanny ★★ FRENCH/ITALIAN Alice Waters’s (of Chez Panisse fame) cafe is one of those local must-do East Bay breakfast traditions. Don your Birkenstocks and earth-tone apparel, grab the morning paper, and head here to wait in line for a simple yet masterfully prepared French breakfast. The menu offers such items as soft-boiled farm-fresh eggs on Levain toast, buckwheat crepes with house-made preserves, cinnamon toast, and an assortment of superb pastries. Lunch is more of an Italian experience featuring seasonal selections. Sandwiches—such as Alice’s baked ham and watercress on focaccia or grilled chicken breast wrapped in prosciutto, sage, and aioli on Acme bread—might convince you that maybe Berkeley isn’t such a crazy place to live after all. There’s also a selection of pizzettas, salads, and soup. Eat inside at the stand-up food bar (one bench) or outside at one of the cafe tables.
1603 San Pablo Ave. (at Cedar St.). 510/524-5447. www.cafefanny.com. Breakfast items $3–$9.45; lunch $7.45–$9.45. MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 8am–4pm; Sun 8am–3pm. Breakfast until 11am; Sun all day. Closed major holidays.
O Chamé ★★ JAPANESE Spare and plain in its decor, this spot has a meditative air to complement the traditional, experimental, and extremely fresh Japanese-inspired cuisine. The menu, which changes daily, offers meal-in-a-bowl dishes ($13–$16) that allow a choice of soba or udon noodles in a clear soup with a variety of toppings—from shrimp and wakame seaweed to beef with burdock root and carrot. Appetizers include a flavorful melding of grilled shiitake mushrooms, as well as portobello mushrooms and green-onion pancakes. Their main entree selection always includes delicious roasted salmon, but you can also easily fill up on a bowl of soba or udon noodles with fresh, wholesome fixings (think roasted oysters, sea bass, and tofu skins).
1830 Fourth St. (near Hearst). 510/841-8783. www.themenupage.com/ochame.html. Reservations recommended Fri–Sat dinner. Main courses $9–$19 lunch, $18–$24 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–3pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–9pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–9:30pm.
OAKLAND
10 miles E of San Francisco
Although it’s less than a dozen miles from San Francisco, Oakland is worlds apart from its sister city across the bay. Originally little more than a cluster of ranches and farms, Oakland exploded in size and stature practically overnight, when the last mile of transcontinental railroad track was laid down. Major shipping ports soon followed and, to this day, Oakland remains one of the busiest industrial ports on the West Coast.
The price for economic success, however, is Oakland’s lowbrow reputation as a predominantly working-class city; it is forever in the shadow of chic San Francisco. However, as the City by the Bay has become crowded and expensive in the past few years, Oakland has experienced a rush of new residents and businesses. As a result, “Oaktown” is in the midst of a renaissance, and its future continues to look brighter and brighter.
Rent a sailboat on Lake Merritt, stroll along the waterfront, explore the fantastic Oakland Museum—they’re all great reasons to hop the bay and spend a fog-free day exploring one of California’s largest and most ethnically diverse cities.
Essentials
BART connects San Francisco and Oakland through one of the longest underwater transit tunnels in the world. Fares range from $3 to $4 one-way, depending on your station of origin; children 4 and under ride free. BART trains operate Monday through Friday from 4am to midnight, Saturday from 6am to midnight, and Sunday from 8am to midnight. Exit at the 12th Street station