Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [208]
5766 Silverado Trail, Napa. 707/944-2020. www.cask23.com. Daily 10am–4:30pm. Tours by appointment only. From Hwy. 29, go east on Trancas St. or Oak Knoll Ave., and then north to the cellars.
Paying to Taste
It used to be unusual to have to pay for wine tasting, and when the tides first started to change, I wasn’t really for it. But over the past decade, sipping through the region has become such a pastime that in the more popular—and cheap or free—tasting spots you’ll often find yourself competing for room at the bar, never mind a refill or a little wine chatter with your host. As a result, I’ve changed my view on paying a premium to taste. With the flash of a 10- or 20-spot per person you not only avoid crowding in with the hundreds of tipsy souls who come merely for the fun and the buzz, but you also usually get a more intimate experience, complete with attention from staff and usually far more exclusive (and sometimes even seated) surroundings.
YOUNTVILLE ★★
68 miles N of San Francisco
As tiny a town as it is, Yountville (pop. 3,085), is a serious power player in the world of food and wine. Why? Two words: Thomas Keller. Probably the nation’s most revered chef has not one, but four dining destinations here—and counting. But there’s more to munch on than fabulous French-inspired food. Chef Michael Chiarello (who became famous decades ago as Tra Vigne’s chef) has an Italian restaurant here, too, right alongside his NapaStyle home style and gift shop. You’ll also find several other well-established culinary legends who have long given visitors reason to veer off Hwy. 29 to overindulge. Fortunately, the town also has lots of places to sleep off the food comas. Most are midlevel luxury resorts, which are subtly sprinkled along the thoroughfare, including the latest addition, Hotel Luca ★★ (6774 Washington St.; www.hotellucanapa.com; 707/944-8080), a charming 20-room destination in downtown Yountville that conjures Tuscan decadence, complete with giant, opulently appointed rooms, a centerpiece courtyard with outdoor fireplace, outdoor pool, a polished restaurant, and basement spa that also delivers.
Domaine Chandon ★★ Founded in 1973 by French champagne house Moët et Chandon, the valley’s most renowned sparkling winemaker rises to the grand occasion with truly elegant grounds and an atmosphere that has evolved to include a hip vibe and trendy decor. Manicured gardens showcase locally made sculpture, and guests linger—their glasses fizzing with bubbly by a table loaded with snacks—in the festive tasting Salon or under its patio’s umbrella shade. In the restaurant, diners indulge in a somewhat formal French-inspired meal (a more casual menu is available at lunchtime). If you can pull yourself away from the Salon’s bubbly or still wine (sold in tastes for $18–$25), the comprehensive tours and tastings are interesting, very informative, and friendly. Note: The restaurant is closed on Tuesday and Wednesday and has even more restricted winter hours; it usually requires reservations. Also, check the website to see if they’re offering two-for-one tastings.
1 California Dr. (at Hwy. 29), Yountville. 707/944-2280. www.chandon.com. Daily 10am–5pm; hours vary by season, so call to confirm. Call or check website for free tour schedules and seasonal hours.
Domaine Chandon offers a unique sculpture garden in addition to the bubbly.
OAKVILLE
70 miles N of San Francisco
Driving farther north on Hwy. 29 brings you to Oakville, most easily recognized by Oakville Cross Road.
Far Niente ★