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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [209]

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This storybook stone winery is a serious treat for wine, garden, and classic car lovers, even if it can feel a little intimidating and formal. Founded in 1885, it was abandoned for 60 years around Prohibition, purchased in 1979 by Gil Nickel (of nearby Nickel & Nickel winery where tours and tastings are $50), and opened to the public for the first time in spring 2004. The $50 by-appointment tour here includes a walk around the beautiful historic stone property, caves, private car collection (truly stunning!), and a huge azalea garden. It finishes with a sampling of five wines (including a delicious chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and Dolce—their spectacular semillon and sauvignon blanc dessert blend that’s sure to make converts of even sweet-wine naysayers). Wine prices range from $56 for chardonnay to $125 for the estate cabernet sauvignon.

1350 Acacia Dr., Oakville. 800/363-6523 or 707/944-2861. www.farniente.com. (See also www.nickelandnickel.com and www.dolcewine.com.) Tours and tastings by appointment only daily 10am–4pm.

Silver Oak Cellars Back in business after a 2006 fire had them hawking their wares out of a temporary tasting room, this remodeled winery has long produced a renowned go-to cabernet for label-conscious big spenders. But it’s got more to it than a notable name. Its focus on the big red varietal means its 30,000 annual case production is focused on fine Napa Valley cabernet sauvignon. (An additional 70,000 cases are produced annually at their Alexander Valley winery in Geyserville.) Tastings in their Mediterranean-style tasting room, which include a keepsake bordeaux glass, are $10. No picnic facilities are available.

915 Oakville Cross Rd. (at Money Rd.), Oakville. 800/273-8809 or 707/944-8808. www.silveroak.com. Tasting room Mon–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm.

PlumpJack Winery If most wineries are like a Brooks Brothers suit, PlumpJack stands out as the Todd Oldham of wine tasting: chic, colorful, a little wild, and popular with a young, hip crowd as well as aficionados. Like the franchise’s PlumpJack San Francisco restaurants and wine shop, and its Lake Tahoe resort, this playfully medieval winery is a welcome diversion from the same old same old. With Getty bucks behind what was once Villa Mt. Eden winery, the budget covers far more than just atmosphere: There’s some serious winemaking going on here, too. For $10 you can stand at the bar and sample sauvignon blanc, merlot, syrah, and chardonnay. Alas, there are no tours or picnic spots.

620 Oakville Cross Rd. (just west of the Silverado Trail), Oakville. 707/945-1220. www.plumpjack.com. Daily 10am–4pm. Reservations required for groups of 8 or more.

Robert Mondavi Winery ★ Mission-style Mondavi is home to the most comprehensive tours in the valley. Basic jaunts, which cost $25 and last about an hour and 15 minutes, take you through the vineyards and through their winemaking facilities. Ask the guides anything; they know a heck of a lot. After the tour, you taste the results of all this attention to detail in selected current wines. If you’re really into learning more about wine, ask about their myriad in-depth tours, such as their $100 “Harvest of Joy” tour, which includes a tour of the winery and a three-course luncheon with wine pairing. In summer, the winery features exceptional outdoor concerts where locals (and visitors) bring their own picnic and dance in the grass to the likes of Buena Vista Social Club, Aimee Mann, and Chaka Kahn. If you can swing it, don’t pass up the opportunity to attend a show; it’s one the most magical experiences available in these parts. Call about upcoming events.

7801 St. Helena Hwy. (Hwy. 29), Oakville. 888/766-6328, ext. 2000, or 707/226-1395. www.robertmondaviwinery.com. Daily 10am–5pm. Reservations recommended for guided tour; book 1 week ahead, especially for weekend tours. Closed Easter, Thanksgiving, Christmas Day, and New Year’s Day.

Opus One A visit to Opus One is a serious and stately affair that includes a formal (read stiff) but educational winery tour and a steeply priced but satisfying swig of the

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