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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [210]

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famed (and pricey) red wine developed in a partnership between wine legends Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild. Architecture buffs in particular will appreciate the tour, which takes in both the impressive Greco-Roman-meets-20th-century building and the no-holds-barred ultra-high-tech production and aging facilities. Wine lovers will appreciate the attention to detail: The entire facility caters to one ultrapremium wine, which is offered here for a whopping $30 per 4-ounce taste (and a painful $190 per bottle). Grab your glass and head to the redwood rooftop deck to enjoy the view.

7900 St. Helena Hwy. (Hwy. 29), Oakville. 707/944-9442. www.opusonewinery.com. Daily 10am–4pm. Tours daily by appointment only; in high season, book a month in advance.

Holding your glass up to the sky—or any pale or white background—is a good way to check the wine’s color.

RUTHERFORD

3 miles N of Oakville

If you so much as blink after Oakville, you’re likely to overlook Rutherford, the next small town that borders on St. Helena. Each town in Napa Valley has its share of spectacular wineries, but you won’t see most of them while driving along Hwy. 29.

Swanson Vineyards & Winery ★★ The valley’s most untraditionally chic and playful wine tasting is yours with a reservation and a $60 fee at Swanson. Here you and up to seven other guests sit at a centerpiece round table in a vibrant coral parlor and take in the uncommonly refined yet whimsical atmosphere. The table’s set more for a dinner party than for a tasting, with fancy stemware, caviar on potato crisps, slivers of a fine cheese or two, crackers, and one chocolate-and-red-wine-ganache-filled bonbon, which are also available for purchase in an adorable pink polka-dot hatbox. Over the course of the hour-or-more snack-and-sip event, a winery host will pour four to seven wines, perhaps a bright pinot grigio, merlot, and hearty Alexis, their signature cab-syrah blend, and let you carry on fun conversation along with lighthearted but informative wine banter. Definitely a must-do for those who don’t mind spending the money. Newly opened in June 2010 is the adjacent Sip Shoppe (www.sipshoppe.com), for a less formal, more fun tasting experience.

1271 Manley Lane, Rutherford. 707/967-3500. www.swansonvineyards.com. Tasting appoint-ments available Thurs–Sun 11am–5pm.

Sawyer Cellars The most attractive thing about Sawyer, aside from its clean and tasty wines, is its dedication to extremely high quality while it maintains a humble, accommodating attitude. Step into the simple restored 1920s barn to see what I mean. Whatever you ask, the tasting-room host will answer. Whatever your request, they do their best to accommodate it. Here you can tour the property on a little tram or learn more about winemaker Brad Warner, who spent 30 years at Mondavi before embarking on this exclusive endeavor. Plunk down $10 to taste delicious estate-made wines: sauvignon blanc, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, and Meritage with prices ranging from $22 to $48 (for current releases). With a total production of only 4,200 cases and a friendly attitude, this winery is a rare treat.

8350 St. Helena Hwy. (Hwy. 29), Rutherford. 707/963-1980. www.sawyercellars.com. Tasting by appointment. Tours by appointment. Daily 10am–5pm.

Sawyer’s winemaker Brad Warner.

St. Supéry Winery The outside looks like a modern corporate office building, but inside you’ll find a functional, welcoming winery that encourages first-time tasters to learn more about oenology. On the self-guided tour, you can wander through the demonstration vineyard, where you’ll learn about growing techniques. Inside, kids gravitate toward coloring books and “SmellaVision,” an interactive display that teaches one how to identify different wine ingredients. For $15 to $25, you can sample four wines, which hopefully include their excellent and very well priced sauvignon blanc. Even the prices make visitors feel at home: Bottles start at $20 and the tag on their high-end cabernet sauvignon is $85.

8440 St. Helena Hwy. (Hwy. 29), Rutherford. 800/942-0809

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