Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [213]
1281 Lewelling Lane (just west of Hwy. 29, behind Sutter Home), St. Helena. 800/969-7678 or 707/963-7678. www.pragerport.com. Mon–Sat 10:30am–4:30pm; Sun 11am–4:30pm. Appoint-ment required for groups of 4 or more.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards ★ Visitors interested in intimate, comprehensive tours and a knockout tasting should schedule a tour at this winery founded in 1973 by major wine world player Joseph Phelps. A favorite stop for serious wine lovers, primarily due to their ever-popular and expensive Insignia wine, this modern, state-of-the-art winery and big-city vibe are proof that Phelps’s annual 80,000 cases prove fruitful in more ways than one. While at first meeting it seems seriousness hangs heavier than harvest grapes, the mood lightens during the hour-plus $25 informal tasting or any of the $40 “seminars” (think blending or wine appreciation), which include tastings of five or six wines. The three excellently located picnic tables, on the terrace overlooking the valley, are available on a first-come, first-served basis, with preference given to Phelps wine club members (join and get wine shipped a certain number of times per year) who are also able to make a reservation.
200 Taplin Rd. (off the Silverado Trail), St. Helena. 800/707-5789 or 707/963-2745. www.jpvwines.com. Mon–Fri 10am–5pm; Sat–Sun 10am–4pm. $40 seminars and tastings by appoint-ment only weekends at 10am and 2pm, weekdays at 10am and 2:30pm. $15 per person for 1-oz. pour of Insignia.
Robert Keenan Winery It’s a winding, uphill drive to reach secluded Robert Keenan, but this far off the tourist track you’re guaranteed more elbowroom at the tasting bar and a quieter, less commercial experience.
Behind the 10,000-case annual production of primarily full-bodied reds is native San Franciscan Robert Keenan, who ran his own insurance agency for 20 years before purchasing his “retirement property” and launching a second career. But the 176-acre estate (48 acres of which are now planted with grapes), dates back to 1890 when it was founded as the Conradi Winery.
Drop by to sip mountain cab, merlot, chardonnay, cabernet franc, and zin, which range from $29 to $57 per bottle. Older vintages, which you won’t find elsewhere, are for sale here as well. Take the tour to learn about the vineyards, production facilities, and winemaking in general. Those looking for a pastoral picnic spot should consider spreading their blankets out here. The three tables, situated right outside the winery and surrounded by vineyards, offer stunning views.
3660 Spring Mountain Rd. (off Hwy. 29), St. Helena. 707/963-9177. www.keenanwinery.com. Open daily; by appointment only.
Domaine Charbay Winery & Distillery After you finally reach this mountaintop hideaway, affectionately called “the Still on the Hill,” you immediately get the sense that something special is going on here. Owner Miles Karakasevic considers himself more of a perfume maker than a 12th-generation master distiller, and it’s easy to see why. The tiny distillery is crammed with bottles of his latest fragrant potions, such as brandy, whole-fruit-flavor-infused vodkas, grappa, and pastis. He’s also become known for other elixirs: black walnut liqueur, apple brandy, a line of ports, several cabernet sauvignons, and the charter product—Charbay (pronounced Shar-bay)—a brandy liqueur blended with chardonnay.
The low-key tour—which costs $20 per person, is private and exclusive, and includes tastes of premade cocktails—centers on a small, 25-gallon copper alembic still and the distilling process.
4001 Spring Mountain Rd. (5 miles west of Hwy. 29), St. Helena. 800/634-7845 or 707/963-9327. www.charbay.com. Open daily (except holidays).
Beringer Vineyards ★ You won’t find a personal experience at this tourist-heavy stop. But you will get a taste of history within the