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regal 1876 estate founded by brothers Jacob and Frederick Beringer and hand-dug tunnels in the hillside. The oldest continuously operating winery in Napa Valley, Beringer managed to stay open even during Prohibition by cleverly making sacramental wines. White zinfandel is the winery’s most popular seller, but plenty of other varietals are available to enjoy. Tastings of current vintages, which range from $15 to $25, are conducted in newer facilities. Reserve wines are available for tasting in the remarkable Rhine House for $25 (applied toward purchase), and tours range from the $20 standard to the $30 “Taste of Beringer Tour.”

2000 Main St. (Hwy. 29), St. Helena. 707/963-7115. www.beringer.com. Oct–May 10am–5pm (last tour 4pm, last tasting 4:45pm); June–Sept 10am–6pm (last tour 5:15pm, last tasting 5:30pm).

Beringer ages its wine in “custom-toasted” French Nevers oak barrels.

CALISTOGA

81 miles N of San Francisco

Calistoga, the last tourist town in Napa Valley, got its name from Sam Brannan, entrepreneur extraordinaire and California’s first millionaire. After making a bundle supplying miners during the gold rush, he went on to take advantage of the natural geothermal springs at the north end of the valley by building a hotel and spa here in 1859. Flubbing up a speech, in which he compared this natural California wonder to New York State’s Saratoga Springs resort town, he serendipitously coined the name “Calistoga,” and it stuck. Today, this small, simple resort town, with fewer than 6,000 residents and an old-time main street (no building along the 6-block stretch is more than two stories high), is popular with city folk who come here to unwind. Calistoga is a great place to relax and indulge in mineral waters, mud baths, Jacuzzis, massages, and, of course, wine. The vibe is more casual—and a little groovier—than you find in neighboring towns to the south.

Frank Family Vineyards ★ “Wine dudes” Dennis, Tim, Jeff, Rick, and Pat will do practically anything to maintain their rightfully self-proclaimed reputation as the “friendliest winery in the valley.” In recent years the name may have changed from Kornell Champagne Cellars to Frank-Rombauer to Frank Family, but the vibe has remained constant; it’s all about down-home, friendly fun. No muss, no fuss, no intimidation factor. At Frank Family, you’re part of their family—no joke. They’ll greet you like a long-lost relative and serve you all the bubbly you want (three to four varieties: blanc de blanc, blanc de noir, reserve, and rouge, at $32–$135 a bottle). Still-wine lovers can slip into the equally casual back room to sample chardonnay and a very well-received cabernet sauvignon. Behind the tasting room is a choice picnic area, situated under the oaks and overlooking the vineyards.

1091 Larkmead Lane (just off the Silverado Trail), Calistoga. 707/942-0859. www.frankfamilyvineyards.com. Daily 10am–5pm. No tours offered.

Castello di Amorosa ★ Can you believe there’s a medieval-style stone castle in Calistoga? Yup. Seriously. Though it’s only a few years old, the eight-level structure, complete with 90 feet of caves, a dungeon, and torture chamber, is surprisingly authentic (as evidenced by how tired and achy my legs and feet were after tromping on cobblestones). Drop by to get a glimpse of old-world grandiosity and pay $10 to sample a variety of wines, including chardonnay, merlot, cabernet, and dessert wines. (Prices are steep at $30–$75 per bottle.) Or make a reservation for the nearly 2-hour tour, which costs $25 on weekdays and $30 on weekends ($15 for children 10 or older; 9 and under are not permitted). Though the castle is a far cry from quintessential wine country (some liken it to Disneyland), it is fun to browse this stunning architectural accomplishment.

4045 North St. Helena Hwy., Calistoga. 707/942-8200 or 707/286-7273 (for events). www.castellodiamorosa.com. Tasting daily 9:30am–6pm. Tours by reservation only: on the hour Mon–Fri 9:30am–4:30pm, and on the half-hour, Sat–Sun and holidays 9:30am–5pm.

THE INS & OUTS OF shipping WINE HOME

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