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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [227]

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Add a couple of Morimotinis and you’ve got a night well spent.

610 Main St., Napa. 707/252-1600. www.morimotonapa.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$45. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Tues 5–10pm; Wed–Thurs and Sun 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm and 5pm–1am.

Moderate

Angèle ★★ COUNTRY FRENCH I, along with other locals, love this riverside spot for three reasons: The food is consistently great, it’s reasonably priced (comparatively), and the surroundings are some of the best in the valley. Its cozy combo of raw wood beams, taupe-tinted concrete-slab floors, bright yellow leather bar stools, candlelight, and a heated, shaded patio (weather permitting) has always been great for intimate dining. The menu is regularly peppered with seasonal specialties, but it also holds on to local favorites like crispy roast chicken, which, depending on the time of year, may be ornamented with summer corn, chanterelles, lardons, baby potatoes, and jus or something more wintery. Also expected: outstanding burgers and tasty seafood such as roasted Columbia river sturgeon with sunchokes, black trumpet mushrooms, and sauce daube. During winter eves, opt for the rustic-chic indoors; for summer, settle into one of the outdoor seats. And if you’re a banana fan, definitely try their cobbler version for dessert; with fresh banana slices submerged in pastry cream and topped with crisp crumbly topping, it’s ridiculously good.

540 Main St. (in the Hatt Building). 707/252-8115. www.angelerestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$34. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10pm.

BarBersQ ★ BARBECUE Located in a Napa strip mall, this extremely crowded eatery has garnered three stars from San Francisco’s most persnickety critic and a fiercely loyal following for its “American Heritage cuisine” (think Memphis-style barbecue, classic comfort foods, and meat, meat, and more meat). The menu covers all the grease and gristle faves, from legendary fried chicken (served only on Sun) to ribs, brisket, whole roast chicken for two, beans and ham, and mac and cheese. Add chocolate bourbon pecan pie, Key lime pie, or a hot fudge sundae and you’ll be hard-pressed to get out the door with your pants buttoned. Like most Napa Valley restaurants, this one does decadence with a “healthy” twist, employing fresh, local, organic ingredients when possible. While this effort doesn’t cut calories, it may mitigate any potential guilt attached to unabashed indulgence. Also, FYI, service is uneven—also a Napa norm—and takeout is a popular option.

3900 D Bel Aire Plaza. 707/224-6600. www.barbersq.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8–$30. AE, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–8:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–9pm.

Bistro Don Giovanni ★★ REGIONAL ITALIAN Donna and Giovanni Scala own this bright, large, bustling, and cheery Italian restaurant (hence the name), which also happens to be one of my favorite restaurants in Napa Valley. Fare prepared by chef/partner Scott Warner highlights quality ingredients and California flair and never disappoints, especially when it comes to the thin-crusted pizzas and house-made pastas. I almost always order beets and haricots verts, the pasta with duck Bolognese, or seared salmon filet perched atop a tower of buttermilk mashed potatoes. On the rare occasion that I stray, I am equally smitten with outstanding classic pizza Margherita fresh from the wood-burning oven and steak frites. Yet, not all is perfect. Service often leaves a little to be desired (unless you sit at the bar—always a social adventure!) and appetizer prices are a bit steep for the size. But don’t let these drawbacks deter you. Alfresco dining overlooking the vineyards is available—and highly recommended on a warm, sunny day. Desserts seriously rock, so take my advice and order unabashedly—even if your stomach protests.

4110 Howard Lane (at St. Helena Hwy.). 707/224-3300. www.bistrodongiovanni.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$38. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm.

Ubuntu ★★ VEGETARIAN Named

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