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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [228]

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one of the best eateries in the country by multiple sources, this swank downtown Napa spot offers decadent vegetarian cuisine made from sustainably, locally grown ingredients (often plucked from owner Sandy Lawrence’s biodynamic garden). The edible action takes place in an eco-friendly room characterized by high stone walls, a large centerpiece community table, and a partitioned upstairs that acts as a yoga studio. Far from familiar vegetarian food, nothing here is mushy, boring, or expected. Don’t miss the roast cauliflower—a creamy, dreamy classic—mushroom pizza with homemade goat’s milk ricotta, or, really, anything the menu offers, including desserts by the chef’s wife, Deanie. The best part: You don’t need to be crunchy to dine here. Everything about this place is grown-up and elegant.

1140 Main St., near Pearl, Napa. 707/251-5656. www.ubuntunapa.com. Reservations recommended. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sat–Sun 11:30am–2:15pm; Thurs–Mon 5:30–9pm.

Inexpensive

Alexis Baking Company ★ BAKERY/CAFE Alexis (also known as ABC) is a quaint, casual hangout for residents and in-the-know tourists who don’t mind the limited menu in exchange for quality food and relaxed, bright coffeehouse-style surroundings. On weekend mornings—especially Sunday, which is when you’ll find me devouring their out-of-this-world huevos rancheros and classic eggs Benedict—the line stretches out the door. Order from the counter during the week and at the table on Sunday, find a seat, and relax—there’s really nothing else to do. Start your day with spectacular pastries, coffee drinks, and breakfast goodies like pumpkin pancakes with sautéed pears. Lunch also bustles with locals who come for simple, fresh fare like grilled hamburgers with Gorgonzola, grilled-chicken Caesar salad, roast lamb sandwich with minted mayo and roasted shallots on rosemary bread, and lentil bulgur orzo salad. (Sorry, fries lovers; you won’t find any here.) Desserts run the gamut; during the holidays, they include a moist and magical steamed persimmon pudding. Oh, and the pastry counter’s cookies and cakes beg you to take something for the road.

1517 Third St. (btw. Main and Jefferson sts.). 707/258-1827. www.alexisbakingcompany.com. Main courses $6–$17 breakfast, $7–$13 lunch. MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 7:30am–3pm; Sun 8am–2pm.

Norman Rose Tavern ★ AMERICAN Despite its unsavory name, Napa’s favorite stop for good American grub is a welcome departure from the region’s pervasive French and Italian menus. Here, within a handsome yet relaxed dining room it’s all about dressed-up classic American comfort foods. All the standbys are present and accounted for—from a build-your-own burger with optional fixin’s like an organic fried egg, thyme-roasted mushrooms, or smoked bacon to four types of fries (including chili ’n’ cheese!) to grilled flat iron steak. Equally uncommon for the area are the moderate prices, which is why locals have been instant loyalists since the doors opened in late 2009. FYI, this joint is owned and operated by the folks behind Pizza Azzurro (see below).

1401 First St. (at Franklin St.), Napa. 707/258-1516. www.normanrosenapa.com. Main courses $9.95–$19 lunch and dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri–Sun 11:30am–11pm.

Pizza Azzurro ★ ITALIAN This casual, cheery, family-friendly restaurant serves the best fancy thin-crust pies in downtown Napa. Unlike many Valley dining rooms, the place has an authentic neighborhood feel thanks to a very low-key atmosphere, and the continual presence of chef/owner Michael Gyetvan, who spent 10 years in the kitchens of Tra Vigne, One Market, and Lark Creek Inn. While killer thin-crust pizzas—such as the incredible salsiccia (tangy tomato sauce, rustic Sonoma-made fennel pork sausage, crunchy red onion, and mozzarella)—star here, they’ve got great salads, too. Pastas (such as rigatoni in red sauce with hot Italian sausage and mushrooms) play it safe, while manciatas—soft, lightly cooked pizza dough meant to be folded and eaten like a soft taco—are very satisfying. (Try the B.B.L.T. version.) Although Bistro Don Giovanni

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