Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [229]
1260 Main St. (at Clinton St.). 707/255-5552. www.azzurropizzeria.com. No reservations except for 8 or more. Main courses $12–$15. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–9:30pm; Fri–Sun 5–10pm.
Villa Corona ★ MEXICAN The best Mexican food in town is served in this funky, ultracasual, and colorful restaurant hidden in the southwest corner of a strip mall behind an unmemorable sports bar and restaurant. The winning plan here is simple: Order and pay at the counter, sit at either a table inside or at one of the few sidewalk seats, and wait for the huge burritos, enchiladas, and chimichangas to be delivered to your table. Those with pork preferences shouldn’t miss the carnitas, which are abundantly flavorful and juicy. My personal favorites are hard-shell tacos or chicken enchiladas with a light savory red sauce, a generous side of beans, and rice. Don’t expect to wash down your menudo, or anything else for that matter, with a margarita. The place serves only beer and wine. Don’t hesitate to come for a hearty breakfast, too. Excellent chilaquiles (eggs scrambled with salsa and tortilla) and huevos rancheros are part of the package.
3614 Bel Aire Plaza, on Trancas St. 707/257-8685. www.villacoronamex.com. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner $6–$10. MC, V. Mon–Fri 9am–9pm; Sat 8am–9pm; Sun 8am–8pm.
ZuZu ★★ TAPAS A local place to the core, ZuZu lures neighborhood regulars with a no-reservation policy, a friendly, cramped wine-and-beer bar, and affordable Mediterranean/Latin American small plates, which are meant to be shared. The comfortable, warm, and not remotely corporate atmosphere extends from the environment to the food, which includes sizzling mini-skillets of tangy and fantastic paella, addictive prawns with chipotle and paprika, light and delicate sea scallop seviche salad, and Moroccan barbecued lamb chops with a sweet-and-spicy sauce. Desserts aren’t as fab, but with a bottle of wine and tastier plates than you can possibly devour, who cares?
829 Main St. 707/224-8555. www.zuzunapa.com. Reservations not accepted. Tapas $3–$13. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–10pm; Fri 11:30am–11pm; Sat 4–11pm; Sun 4–9pm.
YOUNTVILLE
Very Expensive
The French Laundry ★★★ CLASSIC AMERICAN/FRENCH The world-famous French Laundry is unlike any other dining experience. Part of its appeal has to do with intricate preparations, often finished tableside and always presented with uncommon artistry and detail, from the food itself to the surface it’s delivered on. Other strengths are the service (superfluous, formal, and attentive) and the sheer length of time it takes to ride chef Thomas Keller’s culinary magic carpet. The atmosphere is as serious as the diners who quietly swoon over the parade of bite-size delights. Seating ranges from downstairs to upstairs to seasonal garden tables. Technically, the prix-fixe menu offers a choice of nine courses (including a vegetarian menu), but after several presentations from the kitchen, everyone starts to lose count. Signature dishes include Keller’s “tongue in cheek” (a marinated and braised round of sliced lamb tongue and tender beef cheeks) and “macaroni and cheese” (sweet butter-poached Maine lobster with creamy lobster broth and orzo with mascarpone cheese). The experience defies description, so if you absolutely love food, you’ll simply have to try it for yourself. Portions are small, but only because Keller wants his guests to taste as many things as possible. Trust me, nobody leaves hungry.
The staff is well acquainted with the wide selection of regional wines; there’s a $50 corkage fee if you bring your own bottle, which is only welcome if it’s not on the list. Hint: If you can’t get a reservation, try walking in—no-shows are rare but possible, especially during lunch on rainy days. Reservations are accepted 2 months in advance of the date, starting at 10am. Anticipate hitting redial many times. Also, insiders tell me that fewer people call on weekends,