Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [230]
6640 Washington St. (at Creek St.). 707/944-2380. www.frenchlaundry.com. Reservations required. Dress code: no jeans, shorts, or tennis shoes; men should wear jackets; ties optional. 9-course tasting menu (including vegetarian option) $250. AE, MC, V. Fri–Sun 11am–1pm; daily 5:30–9:15pm.
A sous chef perfects a dish at the French Laundry.
Expensive
Redd ★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN Chef Richard Reddington may have put his name on the culinary map at nearby resort Auberge du Soleil, but he secured a spot among the valley’s very best chefs when he opened his own restaurant at the end of 2005. Though the modern and stark dining room is a wee too stark and white-on-white for my taste, the menu is definitely full-flavored. Not that I am surprised. Expect exceptional appetizers such as a delicate sashimi hamachi with edamame, cucumber, ginger, and sticky rice, as well as a cold foie gras trio with pistachios and brioche. For entrees, the Atlantic cod with chorizo, clams, and curry sauce is a dream dish that simultaneously manages to be rich and light. If your budget allows, definitely let the sommelier wine-pair the meal for you. He’s bound to turn you on to some new favorites. Also, if you’re looking for a lush brunch spot, this is it!
6480 Washington St. 707/944-2222. www.reddnapavalley.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses brunch $15–$27, lunch $13–$21, dinner $25–$29; 5-course tasting menu $75. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun 11am–2:30pm; daily 5:30–9:30pm. Bar menu served daily 2:30–11pm.
Moderate
Bistro Jeanty ★ FRENCH BISTRO This casual, warm bistro, with muted buttercup walls, two dining rooms divided by the bar, and patio seats, is where chef Philippe Jeanty creates seriously rich French comfort food for legions of fans. The all-day menu includes legendary tomato soup in puff pastry, foie gras pâté, steak tartare, and home-smoked trout with potato slices. No meal should start without a paper cone filled with fried smelt (it’s often on the list of specials), and none should end without the crème brûlée, made with a thin layer of chocolate cream between classic vanilla custard and a caramelized sugar top. In between, it’s a rib-gripping free-for-all including coq au vin, cassoulet, and juicy, slow-roasted pork shoulder with butternut squash gratin and Brussels sprouts. Alas, quality has suffered since Jeanty has branched out to three restaurants, but when the kitchen is on it’s still a fine place to sup.
6510 Washington St. 707/944-0103. www.bistrojeanty.com. Reservations recommended. Appetizers $8.75–$16; most main courses $17–$38. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–10:30pm.
Bottega Ristorante ★ ITALIAN Decorated in the Italian equivalent of the steakhouse—dark leather, pin lights, and brick walls—this sexy Italian hot spot is owned and operated by Food Network star Michael Chiarello, which at least partially explains its popularity. But Chiarello has more going for him than a smile that’s made for TV. The guy is a good cook, and evidence can be found in dishes such as wood-oven-roasted whole fish with Meyer lemon and shaved fennel; and pumpkin and fontina risotto with meat Bolognese. Not everything wows, but no matter. With (relatively) reasonable prices, an awesome scene, and the famed chef himself regularly schmoozing the tables, even on the occasion you do get a just-okay dish, there’s much to enjoy here.
6525 Washington St., behind the NapaStyle store. 707/945-1050. www.botteganapavalley.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses lunch and dinner $15–$28. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun 11:30am–2pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5–10pm; Sun 5–9:30pm.
Bouchon ★ FRENCH BISTRO Perhaps to appease the crowds who never get a reservation at nearby French Laundry, Thomas Keller opened this far more casual—but very sexy—French brasserie. Along with a raw bar, expect textbook renditions of steak frites, mussels meunière, grilled-cheese sandwiches,