Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [232]
RUTHERFORD
Expensive
Auberge du Soleil ★ WINE COUNTRY CUISINE The primary reason to choose this place over other big-ticket restaurants is the celestial view, which overlooks the valley and is only afforded during daylight from the terrace (in other words, come for lunch or an early dinner and gently demand outdoor dining). Chef Robert Curry does a solid job with his seasonally inspired, local-ingredient-focused menu, including dishes such as risotto with lobster, sunchokes, and hazelnut emulsion, or Liberty Farm duck with chestnuts, verjus, braised radicchio, and caramelized shallot sauce. Wash it down with a bottle from the impressive (and very pricey) wine list, with over 30 available by the glass, and you’re living like the rich and famous who regularly stay here. For those who want to experience VIP living without paying full price, dine at the bar (which also has patio seats) where you can have a more casual feast of ahi tuna tartare, grilled chicken panini, a good ol’ burger, and oysters on the half shell, along with 25 wines by the glass.
180 Rutherford Hill Rd. 707/967-3111. www.aubergedusoleil.com. Reservations required. Main courses $28–$42 lunch; 4-course fixed-price dinner $110; 6-course $140, $222 with wine pairings per person; vegetarian tasting menu $98; bar menu $7–$34. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 7–11am, 11:30am–2:30pm, and 5:30–9:30pm. Bar daily 11am–11pm.
ST. HELENA
Expensive
Terra/Bar Terra ★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN In 2011, Terra doubled its destination-worthy fun, offering two entirely different experiences—one a festive bar area with more casual (but still excellent) dining and one highlighting the fine dining that made it one of the valley’s most renowned restaurants. Conceptualized by Lissa Doumani and her husband, Hiro Sone, a Japanese master chef (who are also behind San Francisco’s famed Ame restaurant), the new relaxed-dining menu offers seasonal cocktails made from fruits and herbs grown by the owners (plus a full bar) and a menu featuring a broad range of dishes and prices that allows diners to mix and match a meal to suit their appetites as well as their pocketbooks. The fine-dining menu continues to reflect Sone’s full use of the region’s bounty and his formal training in classic European and Japanese cuisine. But now the affair is a three-, four-, or five-course extravaganza, with options ranging from understated and refined (two must-tries: rock shrimp salad, or broiled sake-marinated cod with shrimp dumplings and shiso broth) to rock-your-world flavorful. I cannot express the importance of saving room for dessert (or forcing it even if you don’t). Doumani’s recipes, which include to-die-for tiramisu, are heavenly.
1345 Railroad Ave. (btw. Adams and Hunt sts.). 707/963-8931. www.terrarestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Bar: Plates $6–$25. Dining room: 3-course $57; 4-course $66; 5-course $81; 6-course $92; chef’s menu changes nightly. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Mon 6pm–closing. Closed 2 weeks in early Jan.
Fish dish at Terra. Save room for dessert.
Moderate
Tra Vigne Restaurant ★ ITALIAN With myriad chef changes over the years and meals that range from so-so to totally rockin’, Tra Vigne’s not the sure thing it used to be, but it’s got the best outdoor dining scene around, period. Sit in the astoundingly romantic and lush Tuscan-style courtyard and share a chilled bottle of white wine, and you’ll bask in the glory of superb alfresco dining regardless of whether the kitchen is on the money or missing the mark. Inside, the bustling, cavernous dining room and happening bar are fine for chilly days and eves, but they’re not nearly as magical. You can also count on wonderful bread (served with house-cured olives); a menu of robust California dishes, cooked Italian style; a daily oven-roasted pizza special; lots of pastas; and tried-and-true standbys like short ribs and fritto misto.
1050 Charter Oak Ave. 707/963-4444. www.travignerestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$25. DC, DISC, MC, V. Summer daily 11:30am–10pm; winter Mon–Thurs 11:30am–9pm, Fri–Sat 11:30am