Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [233]
Inexpensive
Gillwoods Café AMERICAN In a town like this—where if you order mushrooms on your burger, the waiter’s likely to ask, “What kind?”—this plain old American restaurant is a godsend. At this homey haunt, with its wooden benches and original artwork, it’s all about the basics. You’ll find a breakfast of bakery goods, fruit, pancakes, omelets (with pronounceable ingredients), and a decent eggs Benedict, and a lunch menu of burgers, sandwiches, lots of salads, and chicken-fried steak. Lunch is available starting at 10:30am, but late risers can order breakfast all day. A second location is in downtown Napa at 1320 Napa Town Center ( 707/253-0409).
1313 Main St. (Hwy. 29, at Spring St.). 707/963-1788. Breakfast $9–$12; lunch $9–$13. AE, MC, V. Daily 7:30am–3:30pm. Napa location daily 8am–3pm.
Gott’s Roadside Tray Gourmet DINER Yet another winner to slip from sublime status to buyer beware, this gourmet roadside burger shack built in 1949 and previously known as Taylor’s Refresher still draws huge lines of tourists who love the notion of ordering at the counter and feasting alfresco. But truth be told, its burgers, onion rings, and fries are overrated, especially considering the inflated prices. However, it’s still the only outdoor burger joint in St. Helena (it also offers ahi tuna burgers and various sandwiches, tacos, soups, and salads) and its ever-bustling status proves everyone knows it. A second location in Napa at 644 First St. (near Soscol Ave.) is open daily 10:30am to 9pm.
933 Main St. 707/963-3486. www.gottsroadside.com. Main courses $7–$14. AE, MC, V. Daily 10:30am–9pm.
Market AMERICAN If you’re in expensive St. Helena and want some casual glamour with your burger, you’ll find it here with fancy stone-wall and Brunswick bar surroundings paired with clunky steak knives and simple white-plate presentations. The food, which focuses on classics like meatloaf, fish and chips, and chopped salad, is solid and guaranteed to be accompanied by atmospheric surroundings, a reasonable price tag, and a local clientele. At lunch, you can also opt for a three-course meal—one of the valley’s best bargains at a measly $20.
1347 Main St. 707/963-3799. www.marketsthelena.com. Most main courses $13–$24. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:30am–9pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–10pm; Sun brunch 10am–3pm and 5–9pm.
CALISTOGA
Moderate
All Seasons Café ★ CALIFORNIAN All Seasons successfully balances old-fashioned down-home dining charm with today’s penchant for sophisticated, seasonally inspired dishes. It also happens to have perhaps the best food in downtown Calistoga. Vibrant bouquets, large framed watercolors, and windows overlooking busy Lincoln Avenue soften the look of the black-and-white checkered flooring, brick-red ceiling, and long, marble wine bar. The laid-back atmosphere and service make the quality of crispy skin chicken with white truffle jus and seared salmon on a bed of savory green lentils with brown butter pecan sauce that much more of a delicious surprise. Don’t forget to take advantage of the fact that they have 400-plus wines available from their adjoining wine shop (with a $15 corkage fee, buy next door and drink for far cheaper than at most restaurants). Alas, the kitchen was a wee bit slow on my last visit, but all was forgiven when the food far surpassed my expectations.
1400 Lincoln Ave. (at Washington St.). 707/942-9111. www.allseasonsnapavalley.net. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $10–$21 lunch, $18–$24 dinner. DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sun noon–2:30pm; daily 5:30–9pm (times vary in winter, please call or go online to confirm).
SONOMA VALLEY
A pastoral contrast to Napa, Sonoma manages to maintain a backcountry ambience, thanks to its far lower density of wineries, restaurants, and hotels. Small, family-owned wineries are Sonoma’s mainstay; tastings are low-key and come with plenty of friendly banter with the winemakers. Basically, this is the valley to target if your ideal vacation includes visiting a handful of wineries along quiet woodsy roads, avoiding shopping outlets and