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Mosser, a highly atypical budget hotel that incorporates Victorian architecture with modern interior design. It originally opened in 1913 as a luxury hotel, only to be dwarfed by the far more modern sky-rise hotels that surround it. But a major multimillion-dollar renovation a few years back transformed this aging charmer into a sophisticated, stylish, and surprisingly affordable SoMa lodging. Guest rooms are replete with original Victorian flourishes—bay windows and hand-carved moldings—that juxtapose well with the contemporary custom-designed furnishings, granite showers, stainless-steel fixtures, ceiling fans, Frette linens, double-paned windows, and modern electronics. The least expensive rooms are quite small and share a bathroom, but are an incredible deal for such a central location—3 blocks from Union Square, 2 blocks from the MOMA, and half a block from the cable car turnaround. It also borders on a “sketchy” street, but so do most hotels a few blocks west of Union Square. The hotel’s restaurant, Annabelle’s Bar & Bistro, serves lunch and dinner.

54 Fourth St. (at Market St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. www.themosser.com. 800/227-3804 or 415/986-4400. Fax 415/495-7653. 166 units, 112 with bathroom. $79–$209 double with bathroom; $47–$119 double without bathroom; $143–$359 suite. Rates include safe-deposit boxes at front desk. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Parking $29, plus $8 for oversize vehicles. Streetcar: F, and all underground Muni. BART: All trains. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; 24-hr. concierge. In room: Ceiling fan, TV, AM/FM stereo w/CD player, hair dryer, Wi-Fi ($9.95 per day).

THE FINANCIAL DISTRICT

This is where the captains of industry and their underlings gather on weekdays in those tall buildings. It’s an area worth considering if you can score a weekday discount.

Best For: Business travelers, discount weekend rates at business hotels, and a central location for people who love to explore on foot. Lively après-work scene at the bars.

Drawbacks: Very noisy and crowded Monday to Friday 7am to 7pm, minimal nightlife scene, zero street parking during the day.

Very Expensive

The Mandarin Oriental ★★★ No hotel combines better ultraluxury digs with incredible views than this gem. Heaven begins after a rocketing ride on the elevators to the rooms, located between the 38th and 48th floors of a high-rise. The opulent rooms feature contemporary Asian-influenced decor, but the best details by far are the huge windows with superb city views, particularly when the fog rolls in. Not all rooms have bathtub-side views (incredible and standard with the signature rooms), but every one does have a luxurious marble bathroom stocked with terry and cotton cloth robes, a makeup mirror, and silk slippers. The 2,000-square-foot Taipan suite—which has a kitchenette, living room, dining area, bedroom, roomy bathroom, and bay-view balcony half the size of a football field—is twice as big as my entire house. An added bonus: The restaurant, Silks, has a kitchen crew working wonders with the Asian-influenced menu, though the dining room can be awkwardly empty.

222 Sansome St. (btw. Pine and California sts.), San Francisco, CA 94104. www.mandarinoriental.com/sanfrancisco. 800/622-0404 or 415/276-9888. Fax 415/276-9304. 158 units. $395–$640 double; from $875 suite. Continental breakfast $21; American breakfast $32. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $36. Bus: All Market St. buses. Streetcar: J, K, L, or M to Montgomery. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; concierge; fitness center; room service. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, CD player, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($13 per day).

Expensive

Hilton San Francisco Financial District ★ Finally there’s a good reason to stay in Chinatown. Having recently undergone a $55-million renovation, this upscale hotel geared toward the needs of the business traveler is a good choice for anyone seeking a convenient downtown location perfect for forays into Chinatown, North Beach, and beyond. All of the comfortably modern rooms feature either city or bay views, so you really can’t go wrong. The panoramic bay