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views of Coit Tower, Telegraph Hill, and Alcatraz are wholly unobstructed as you look straight down the Columbus Avenue thoroughfare to Ghirardelli Square. The in-room contemporary decor includes dark muted earth-tone carpets, warm honey-colored wood, and lush, pristine palette beds with crisp white linens and feather beds swathed in masculine dusty blue, tan, and slate-gray pillows and accents. The seven suites have bamboo floors, fireplaces, balconies, and large luxurious bathrooms, some with nice touches like sleek yours-and-mine sinks. For concierge-floor guests, a complimentary breakfast is served in a private lounge.

750 Kearny St. (at Washington St.), San Francisco, CA 94108. www.sanfranciscofinancialdistrict.hilton.com. 800/HILTONS (445-8667) or 415/433-6660. Fax 415/765-7891. 549 units. $199–$429 double; $989–$1,200 suite. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $42. Bus: 1, 9AX, 9BX, or 15. Cable car: California. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; coffee bar; concierge; fitness room; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($9.95 per day).

Hyatt Regency San Francisco ★ The Hyatt Regency, a convention favorite, rises from the edge of the Embarcadero Center at the foot of Market Street. The gray concrete structure, with a 1970s, bunkerlike facade, is shaped like a vertical triangle, serrated with long rows of jutting balconies. The 17-story atrium lobby, illuminated by museum-quality theater lighting, has a waterway flowing through it. (Be sure to ride the glass elevators to the top floor for a great indoor view.)

Rooms are furnished in “contemporary decor” à la corporate hotel fashion. Bonuses include ergonomic workstation chairs; textiles in shades of gold, charcoal gray, and celadon; and coffeemakers. Definitely not a standout choice for shacking up. The Eclipse Café serves breakfast and lunch daily; during the evening it becomes A Cut Above steakhouse. The 13-Views Lounge serves cocktails and bar food for dinner.

5 Embarcadero Center, San Francisco, CA 94111. www.sanfranciscoregency.hyatt.com. 888/591-1234 or 415/788-1234. Fax 415/398-2567. 802 units. $159–$299 double. Continental breakfast $18. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $50. Bus: All Market St. buses. Streetcar: All Market St. streetcars. Amenities: Restaurant; cafe; bar; concierge; fitness center. In room: A/C, TV w/pay movies, hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi ($9.95 per day).

SLEEPING seaside

You would think that a city surrounded on three sides by water would have a slew of seaside hotels. Oddly enough, it has very few, one of which is the Seal Rock Inn. It’s about as far from Union Square and Fisherman’s Wharf as you can place a hotel in San Francisco, but that just makes it all the more unique. The motel fronts Sutro Heights Park, which faces Ocean Beach. Most rooms in the four-story structure have at least partial views of the ocean; at night, the sounds of the surf and distant foghorns lull guests to sleep. The rooms, although large and clean, are old and basic, with rose and teal floral accents. Only some rooms have kitchenettes, but phones, TVs, fridges, covered parking, and use of the enclosed patio and pool area are standard. On the ground floor of the inn is a small old-fashioned restaurant serving breakfast and lunch. Golden Gate Park and the Presidio are both nearby, and the Geary bus—which snails its way to Union Square and Market Street—stops right out front and takes at least a half-hour to get downtown.

The Seal Rock Inn (www.sealrockinn.com; 888/732-5762 or 415/752-8000; fax 415/752-6034) is at 545 Point Lobos Ave. (at 48th Ave.), San Francisco, CA 94121. Double rooms range from $114 to $152.

NORTH BEACH/FISHERMAN’S WHARF

This area is the birthplace of the Beat Generation, where Little Italy meets and mixes with Big China. It’s home to boutique hotels, family-run restaurants, and a lively nightlife scene.

Best For: Hopeless romantics, foodies, wannabe novelists, coffee lovers, and peripatetic insomniacs.

Drawbacks: Tough parking, few hotel bargains, rowdy out-of-towners on weekend nights, and