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get enough of. It’s all prepared Benihana style, with acrobatic chefs whirling knives around and making lots of “hai!,” “ahhh,” and “ooohh” sounds. My favorite dishes are the asparagus spears wrapped in thinly sliced pork, and the grilled marinated shiitake mushrooms. A few tables are perched beside windows overlooking downtown, but the best seats are at the long, arched yakitori bar, where deft chefs spear together nearly 30 versions of the meal on a stick. You can order either one pair at a time if you like the show, or all at once for a feast; about a half-dozen make a meal. The terminally indecisive can opt for the Yakitori Dinner Set for $32, which makes an interesting meal for two.

115 Cyril Magnin St. (at Ellis St.). 415/421-2101. www.hanazenrestaurant.com. Sushi/yakitori items $5–$10. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–5pm; Sun–Thurs 5pm–midnight; Fri–Sat 5pm–1am. Bus: 27 or 38.

Kuleto’s ★ ITALIAN Kuleto’s is one of downtown’s Italian darlings. Muscle your way into a seat at the antipasto bar or at the chef’s counter overlooking the kitchen and fill up on Italian specialties and selections from the wine list featuring 30 by-the-glass options. Partake in the likes of penne pasta drenched in tangy lamb-sausage marinara sauce, clam linguine (generously overloaded with fresh clams), or any of the grilled fresh-fish specials in the casually refined dining room. If you don’t arrive by 6pm, expect to wait—this place fills up fast. Not to worry though, you can always cross the hotel lobby to the wine bar, which also serves the full menu and is open from 6 to 10pm daily.

In the Villa Florence Hotel, 221 Powell St. (btw. Geary and O’Farrell sts.). 415/397-7720. www.kuletos.com. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $5–$15; main courses $16–$37. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7–10:30am; Sat–Sun 8–10:30am; Sun–Thurs 11:30am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–11pm. Bus: 2, 3, 4, or 38. Streetcar: All streetcars. Cable car: Powell–Mason or Powell–Hyde line.

Millennium ★★ VEGAN Chef Eric Tucker and his band of merry waiters led the charge on the sustainable, farm-to-table food movement and proved early on that a meatless menu doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice taste. In a narrow, handsome, Parisian-style dining room with checkered tile flooring, French windows, and sponge-painted walls, Millennium has had nothing but favorable reviews for its egg-, butter-, and dairy-free creations since the day it opened. Favorites include Balinese-style salt-and-pepper-crusted oyster mushrooms with blood orange chili jam, and main courses such as truffled potato Wellington stuffed with shiitake mushroom duxelles served with spring onion and lentil sugo, seared asparagus, blood orange, and capers; or masala dosa, a lentil rice crepe with South Indian chickpea and red chard curry, sweet and spicy papaya chutney, and mint raita. All the wine selections are organic.

In the Hotel California, 580 Geary St. (at Jones St.). 415/345-3900. www.millenniumrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$24. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 5:30–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10pm. Bus: 38. Streetcar: All Muni lines. BART: Powell St.

Rotunda at Neiman Marcus ★ AMERICAN For decades, this has been the hobnobbing spot for ladies who lunch and the men who shlep along with them. Set in the round beneath the stained-glass dome inside Neiman Marcus, the restaurant affords splendid views of Union Square and downtown, and offers such fashionable favorites as lobster club sandwiches, classic chicken salad, and wild mushroom tart. Bring your white gloves for Afternoon Tea, an elaborate affair involving cookies, finger sandwiches, and scones with Devonshire cream and jam.

150 Stockton St. (at Geary St.). 415/362-3900. Reservations accepted. Main courses $16–$28. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11am–4pm; Fri–Sat 11am–5pm; Sun noon–4pm. Bus: All Union Sq. buses.

Scala’s Bistro ★★ FRENCH/ITALIAN Firmly entrenched at the base of the refurbished Sir Francis Drake hotel, this downtown favorite blends Italian bistro and old-world atmosphere with jovial and bustling results. Offering just the right