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balance of elegance and informality, this is a perfect place to stop in for a late-night bite. Of the tempting array of Italian and French dishes, it’s de rigueur to start with the “Earth and Surf” calamari appetizer with grilled portobello mushrooms. Golden beet salad and garlic cream mussels are also good bets. Generous portions of moist, rich duck-leg confit will satisfy hungry appetites, but if you can order only one thing, make it Scala’s signature dish: seared salmon. Resting on a bed of creamy buttermilk mashed potatoes and accented with a tomato, chive, and white-wine sauce, it’s downright delicious. Finish with Bostini cream pie, a dreamy combo of vanilla custard and orange chiffon cake with a warm chocolate glaze.

In the Sir Francis Drake hotel, 432 Powell St. (at Sutter St.). 415/395-8555. www.scalasbistro.com. Reservations recommended. Breakfast $7–$10; main courses $12–$30 lunch and dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 8–10:30am and 11:30am–midnight. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 30, 45, or 76. Cable car: Powell–Hyde line.

Straits Restaurant ★ SINGAPOREAN Straits is the place to go if you’re in the mood for an adventure in Asian-inspired dining. I’m a huge fan of chef Chris Yeo’s spicy Malaysian-Indian-Chinese offerings, such as murtabak (stuffed Indian bread), chili crab, basil chicken, nonya daging rendang (beef simmered in lime leaves), ikan pangang (banana leaf–wrapped barbecued salmon with chili paste), and, hottest of all, his green curry (prawns, scallops, and mussels simmered in a jalapeño-based curry). The stylish restaurant—practically glowing with its profusion of polished woods, stainless steel accents, and gleaming open kitchen—is located on the fourth floor of the fancy Westfield Centre (right above Bloomingdale’s, in fact), so you can squeeze in an afternoon of power shopping before your culinary adventure begins.

Westfield San Francisco Centre, 845 Market St., Ste. 597. 415/668-1783. www.straitsrestaurants.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$34. AE, DC, MC, V. Sun–Wed 11am–10pm; Thurs–Sat 11am–midnight. Bus: 2, 3, 4, or 38.

Inexpensive

Armani Cafe ★ ITALIAN All the couture of Armani comes at a moderate price at the Armani Cafe. This upscale-casual cafe consists of a circular counter in the middle of Armani’s clothing store, a few tables on a mezzanine, and some crowded sidewalk seats when the weather’s agreeable. Yes, it’s a bit unusual to be eating among the racks of clothes, but that’s what makes this cafe such a great place to take a break from Union Square shopping. Local favorites include the antipasto misto, panini, salads, and daily pizza specials. And just in case you need a stiff drink after seeing the prices of their designer suits, the bar stays open until 7pm.

1 Grant Ave. (at O’Farrell St., off Market St.). 415/677-9010. Reservations accepted. Main courses $9–$17. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–6pm; Sat 11am–7pm; Sun noon–6pm. Bus: All Union Sq. buses.

Bang San Thai THAI This little hole in the wall isn’t easily spotted among the hordes of cheap Asian eateries in San Francisco, but it’s surely one of the best. Located next door to one of my favorite bar/speakeasies, Bourbon & Branch, it’s also prime territory to grab a bite to eat after an evening of boozing. With standard Thai fare at ridiculously cheap prices, especially given its Union Square location, you really can’t beat Bang San Thai. A bigger location just opened up around the corner at 791 O’Farrell St. ( 415/928-2772) with the same hours.

505 Jones St. (btw. Geary and O’Farrell sts.). 415/440-2610. www.bangsanthai.com. Main courses $7.95–$11. AE, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bus: 38. Streetcar: All Muni lines. BART: Powell St.

Café de la Presse FRENCH/AMERICAN Parisians will find this 1930s-style French bistro and international newsstand comfortingly familiar. But you needn’t hail from across the pond to enjoy freshly baked pastries, coffee drinks, sidewalk seating, and a French-speaking staff. Its location, directly across from the Chinatown gates, makes it one of the best places in the Union Square area to sit and enjoy