Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [81]
25 Lusk St. (at Harrison St.). 415/495-5875. www.25lusk.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $25–$29. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30am–10pm; Fri–Sun 5:30–11pm; brunch Sun 11am–2pm. Valet parking $10. Bus: 91. Streetcar: N.
Twenty Five Lusk.
Moderate
Gordon Biersch Brewery Restaurant ★ CALIFORNIAN Popular with the young Republican crowd (loose ties and tight skirts predominate), this modern, two-tiered brewery and restaurant eschews traditional brewpub fare—no cheesy nachos on this menu—in an attempt to attract a more upscale clientele. And it works. Goat cheese ravioli is a best-seller, followed by the pecan-crusted half-chicken with garlic mashed potatoes. Start with the delicate and crunchy fried calamari appetizer or, if you’re a garlic hound, the tangy Caesar salad. Most dishes can be paired with one of the brewery’s lagers or ales. Couples bent on a quiet, romantic dinner can skip this place; when the lower-level bar fills up, you practically have to shout to be heard. Beer-lovers who want to pair their suds with decent grub, however, will be quite content.
2 Harrison St. (on the Embarcadero). 415/243-8246. www.gordonbiersch.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$25. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–midnight; Fri–Sat 11:30am–2am. Bus: 32.
Orson ★★ AMERICAN Helmed by renowned chef Elizabeth Falkner of Citizen Cake fame, this newbie to the SoMa ’hood started welcoming diners in 2008 to sample Falkner’s contemporary spin on classic fare. A Caesar salad, for example, is not just a salad, but a work of art: Falkner spruces up the innocuous dish with neutral Pop Rocks hidden in the peppercorn dressing. It’s the other little touches, like a peppercorn-and-marshmallow nibble, that the chef might send over that make this SoMa warehouse-turned-restaurant memorable. Start with the slow poached egg with asparagus, lardon, croutons, and Parmesan; or the house-made burrata (a stretched pre-mozzarella) atop grilled bread. Follow that with a black paella with spicy sausage, squid, piquillo peppers, saffron, and aioli, or the braised beef short ribs and beet-ricotta gnudi. The hamburger is garnished with a Parmesan bun, truffle mayonnaise, Cobb relish, and house-made steak sauce; this is no standard ground beef patty. No matter what you order, you shouldn’t neglect to add a side of duck fat french fries in browned butter béarnaise and/or a bowl of roasted fennel and artichoke hearts. As a pastry chef, Falkner really shines: violet crème brûlée accompanied by ginger, hibiscus gel, and brown butter sable was a recent favorite, though the dessert menu changes often. Tip: Monday through Friday from 5 to 7pm, classic cocktails are a steal at just $5 a pop.
508 Fourth St. (btw. Brannan and Bryant sts.). 415/861-2228. www.orsonsf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$26; 3-course tasting menu $55. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5–10pm. Street parking or pay at nearby lots. Bus: 9X, 12, 30, 45, or 76.
Salt House ★ The self-proclaimed “jackasses” behind Town Hall—chefs Mitch and Steve Rosenthal, and front man Doug Washington—opened this modern urban tavern in 2006, figuring that SoMa and Financial District types would gravitate to a chic, neo-industrial spot that invites diners to eat anywhere (dining room, bar, communal table, counter) anytime (they serve until midnight on weekends), and makes sure they do it with a drink in hand. They were mostly right, though at times the menu feels more bar bitey than full-fledged. Appetizers such as smoked trout with beets, broccoli di ciccio, and cauliflower in Meyer