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Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [82]

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lemon–caper vinaigrette; and baked oysters with bacon and spinach certainly hit the spot. At lunch, the roasted pork Cubano sandwich is a don’t miss.

545 Mission St. (btw. First and Second sts.). 415/543-8900. www.salthousesf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$24 lunch, $20–$27 dinner. AE, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2pm and limited menu 2–5:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5:30–11pm; Fri–Sat 5:30pm–midnight; Sun 5–9:30pm. Bus: 10, 14, or 76.

Zuppa ★★ ITALIAN If you’re looking for a casual-chic dinner spot with good, affordable, rustic Italian food, lively ambience, and a somewhat hip crowd, Zuppa is it. Located among the warehouses of SoMa, this warm industrial room is awash with dark-wood tables and features a back-wall bar orchestrated by on-site owners Joseph and Mary (yes, really). Joe, whose career launched from Spago Hollywood more than 2 decades ago, oversees the menu while Mary works the front of the house. With a menu of items that don’t top $20, this is the way San Francisco dining used to be—if you can’t decide between the antipasti of grilled octopus, Yukon gold potatoes, arugula, and Cerignola olives, pizza with clams and garlic, or grilled pork chop, you can order all of them and not break the bank. Happy hour here (5–7pm Mon–Fri) is a downright bargain—50¢ oysters, half-price pizzas, $4 beers. A selection of cured meats and pizzas make it easy to snack through a meal, but don’t. The house-made pastas—particularly the pork ragout—are fantastic and shouldn’t be missed, and the entrees are great as well—especially when paired with an Italian wine. Take note: Parking in local lots around here costs more on game days (the Giants ballpark is nearby)—expect to pay around $15. Otherwise, it’s very affordable.

564 Fourth St. (btw. Brannan and Bryant sts.). 415/777-5900. www.zuppa-sf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16–$19. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Mon–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm; Sun 5–9pm. Street parking or pay at nearby lots. Bus: 9X, 12, 30, 45, or 76.

Inexpensive

AsiaSF ★ ASIAN/CALIFORNIAN Part restaurant, part gender-illusionist musical revue, AsiaSF manages to be both entertaining and satisfying. As you’re entertained by mostly Asian men dressed as women (who lip-sync show tunes when they’re not waiting on tables), you can nibble on superb grilled shrimp and herb salad; baby back pork ribs with honey tamarind glaze, pickled carrots, and sweet-potato crisps; or filet mignon with Korean dipping sauce, miso eggplant, and fried potato stars. The full bar, Wine Spectator award–winning wine list, and sake list add to the festivities. Fortunately, the food and the atmosphere are as colorful as the staff, which means a night here is more than a meal—it’s a very happening event.

201 Ninth St. (at Howard St.). 415/255-2742. www.asiasf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$20. AE, DISC, MC, V (Mon–Wed $25 minimum). Sun 7–10pm; Tues–Thurs 7–11pm; Fri 7pm–2am; Sat 5pm–2am; cocktails and dancing until 2am on Fri–Sat. Bus: 9, 12, or 47. Streetcar: Civic Center on underground streetcar. BART: Civic Center.

Manora’s ★ THAI Manora’s has been cranking out some of the best Thai food in town for 20 years and is well worth a jaunt to SoMa. But this is no relaxed affair: It’s perpetually packed (unless you come early), and you’ll be seated sardinelike at one of the cramped but well-appointed tables. During the dinner rush, the noise level can make conversation almost impossible, but the food is so darn good, you’ll probably prefer to ignore people and stuff your face anyway. Start with a Thai iced tea or coffee and tangy soup or chicken satay, which comes with decadent peanut sauce. Follow these with any of the wonderful dinner dishes—which should be shared—and a side of rice. There are endless options, including a vast array of vegetarian plates. Every remarkably flavorful dish arrives seemingly seconds after you order it, which is great if you’re hungry, a bummer if you were planning a long, leisurely dinner. Tip: Come before 7pm or after 9pm if you don’t want a loud, rushed meal.

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