Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [83]
NOB HILL/RUSSIAN HILL
For a map of restaurants in this section, see the “San Francisco Restaurants” map.
Very Expensive
La Folie ★★★ FRENCH I call this unintimidating, cozy, intimate French restaurant “the house of foie gras.” Why? Because on my first visit, virtually every dish overflowed with the ultrarich delicacy. Subsequent visits proved that foie gras still reigns here, but more than that, it reconfirmed La Folie’s long-standing reputation as one of the city’s very best fine-dining experiences—and without any stuffiness to boot. Chef/owner Roland Passot, who unlike many celebrity chefs is actually in the kitchen each night, offers melt-in-your-mouth starters such as seared foie gras with caramelized pineapple and star anise vanilla Muscat broth. Generous main courses include rôti of quail and squab stuffed with wild mushrooms and wrapped in crispy potato strings; butter-poached lobster with glazed blood oranges and shiso, scallion, carrot, and toasted almond salad; and roast venison with vegetables, quince, and huckleberry sauce. The staff is extremely approachable and knowledgeable, and the new surroundings (think deep wood paneling, mirrors, long, rust-colored curtains, and gold-hued Venetian plaster) are now as elegant as the food. Best of all, the environment is relaxed, comfortable, and intimate. Finish with any of the delectable desserts. If you’re not into the three-, four-, or five-course tasting menu, don’t be deterred; the restaurant tells me they’ll happily price out individual items.
2316 Polk St. (btw. Green and Union sts.). 415/776-5577. www.lafolie.com. Reservations recommended. 3-course tasting menu $70; 4-course tasting menu $80; 5-course chef’s tasting menu $90; vegetarian tasting menu $70. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Valet parking $15. Bus: 19, 41, 45, 47, 49, or 76.
Expensive
House of Prime Rib ★★ STEAKHOUSE Anyone who loves a huge slab of meat and old-school-style dining will feel right at home at this shrine to prime (rib)—catering to meat-loving San Franciscans since the 1940s. It’s a fun and ever-packed affair within the men’s club–like dining rooms (fireplaces included), where drinks are stiff, waiters are loose, and all the beef is offered English style—roasted in rock salt, sliced tableside, and served with creamed spinach, a baked or mashed potato, and a soufflé-like Yorkshire pudding. This is not the place to go if you’re on a diet or you’re looking for an adventure in dining: These guys do one thing, but they do it right, serving some 600 roast beef dinners every night, cut thin, thick, and in between (you can even get an extra slice “for dessert”). To placate the occasional non-meat eater, they also offer a fish-of-the-day special, but c’mon—if that’s what you want, go to House of Prime Salmon.
1906 Van Ness Ave. (near Washington St.). 415/885-4605. www.houseofprimerib.net. Reservations recommended. Complete dinners $28–$33. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri 5–10pm; Sat 4:30–10pm; Sun 4–10pm. Valet parking $7. Bus: 47 or 49.
Moderate
Nob Hill Cafe ★ ITALIAN/PIZZA Considering the steep cost and formality of most Nob Hill restaurants, it’s no wonder that residents don’t mind waiting around for a table to open up at this cozy neighborhood bistro. This is the kind of place where you can come wearing jeans and sneakers, tuck into a large plate of linguine with clams and a glass of pinot, and leave fulfilled without blowing a wad of dough (pastas are in the humble $9–$15 range). The dining room is split into two small, simple rooms, with windows looking onto Taylor Street and bright local art on the walls. Service is friendly, and one of the owners is almost always on hand to make sure everyone’s content. When the kitchen is “on,” expect hearty Northern Italian comfort fare worth at least twice its price; even on off days, it’s still a bargain. Start with