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who happily wait—sometimes up to an hour—for a coveted seat at this inconspicuous spot for Shanghai-style cuisine. Order the requisite pot stickers, green-onion-and-shrimp pancakes with peanut sauce, or any number of pork, rice, beef, seafood, chicken, or vegetable dishes from the menu, but I suggest you trust the waiter when he recommends a special (even if you do specify your order, the waiter may tell you to get something else; roll with it, it’s a longtime Chinatown tradition). Even with an expansion that doubled the available space, seating is tight, so prepare to be bumped around a bit and don’t expect perky or attentive service—it’s all part of the Nanking experience.

919 Kearny St. (at Columbus Ave.). 415/421-1429. Reservations accepted for groups of 8 or more. Main courses $6–$12. MC, V. Mon–Fri 11am–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–9pm. Bus: 9, 12, 15, or 30.

Hunan Home’s ★★ CHINESE One of Chinatown’s best restaurants, Hunan Home’s is a feast for the eyes—ubiquitous pink-and-white walls lined with big wall-to-wall mirrors that reflect armies of fish tanks and tacky chandeliers—as well as the palate. The rule of thumb here is not to put anything in your mouth until you’re armed with a glass of water, because most every dish is ooooweeeee hot! Start with Home’s excellent hot-and-sour soup (the acid test of every Chinese restaurant) or wonton soup (chock-full of shrimp, chicken, barbecued pork, squid, and vegetables), followed by the succulent bread appetizer, a platter of prawns with honeyed walnuts, and the scallops à la Hunan (sautéed along with snow peas, baby corn, celery, and mushrooms). Photographs of the more popular dishes are posted out front, though it’s hard to tell which ones will singe your nose hairs.

622 Jackson St. (btw. Kearny St. and Grant Ave.). 415/982-2844. Main courses $7.95–$12. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–2:30pm and 5–9:30pm. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.

R&G Lounge ★ CHINESE It’s tempting to take your chances and duck into any of the exotic restaurants in Chinatown, but if you want a sure thing, go directly to the three-story R&G Lounge. During lunch, all three floors are packed with hungry neighborhood workers who go straight for the $6 rice-plate specials. Even then, you can order from the dinner menu, which features legendary deep-fried salt-and-pepper crab (a little greasy for my taste), and wonderful chicken with black-bean sauce. A personal favorite is melt-in-your-mouth R&G Special Beef, which explodes with the tangy flavor of the accompanying sauce. I was less excited by the tired chicken salad, house specialty noodles, and bland spring rolls. But that was just fine since I saved room for generous and savory seafood in a clay pot and classic roast duck.

631 Kearny St. (at Clay St.). 415/982-7877. www.rnglounge.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9.50–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–9:30pm. Parking validated across the street at Portsmouth Sq. garage 24 hr. or Holiday Inn after 5pm. Bus: 1, 9AX, 9BX, or 15. Cable Car: California line.

NORTH BEACH/TELEGRAPH HILL

For a map of restaurants in this section, see the “Chinatown & North Beach Restaurants” map.

Expensive

Bix ★★ AMERICAN/CALIFORNIAN The martini lifestyle may now be en vogue, but it was never out of style in this glamorous retro ’30s-era supper club. Bix is utterly stylish, with curving mahogany paneling, giant silver pillars, and dramatic lighting, all of which sets the stage for live music and plenty of hobnobbing. Though the sleek setting has overshadowed the food in the past, the legions of diners entranced by the Bix experience don’t seem to care—and it seems as of late Bix is “on” again. Chicken hash has been a menu favorite for the past 19 years, but newer luxury comfort-food dishes—such as caviar service, marrowbones with toast and shallot confit, steak tartare, and pan-roasted seasonal fish dishes—are developing their own fan clubs. Bargain tip: At lunch, the Bix-fixe menu goes for $20.

56 Gold St. (btw. Sansome and Montgomery sts.). 415/433-6300. www.bixrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended.