Frommer's San Francisco 2012 - Matthew Poole [86]
Moderate
Maykadeh PERSIAN/MIDDLE EASTERN If you’re looking to add a little exotic adventure to your North Beach dinner plans, this is the place to go. Surrounded by a sea of Italian bistros, Maykadeh is one of San Francisco’s best and most elegant Persian restaurants. The Middle East may no longer be the culinary capital of the world, but at Maykadeh you can still sample the exotic flavors that characterize Persian cuisine. Of the dozen or so appetizers, some of the best are eggplant with mint garlic sauce; stuffed grape leaves; and lamb tongue with lime juice, sour cream, and saffron (c’mon, live a little). About eight mesquite-grilled items are on the menu, including filet of lamb marinated in lime, homemade yogurt, saffron, and onions. House specialties include half a dozen vegetarian dishes, among them eggplant braised with saffron, fresh tomato, and dried lime.
470 Green St. (btw. Kearny St. and Grant Ave.). 415/362-8286. www.maykadehrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $15–$31. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 11:45am–10:30pm; Fri–Sat 11:45am–11pm; Sun 11:45am–10pm. Valet parking $7 lunch, $8 dinner. Bus: 15, 30, or 41.
Piperade ★★ BASQUE Chef Gerald Hirigoyen takes diners on a Basque adventure in this charming, small, and superbly authentic restaurant. Surrounded by a low wood-beamed ceiling, oak floors, and soft sconce lighting, it’s a casual affair where diners indulge in small and large plates of Hirigoyen’s flavorful Basque cuisine. Your edible odyssey starts with small plates—or plates to be shared—such as my personal favorites: piquillo peppers stuffed with goat cheese and a bright and simple salad of garbanzo beans with calamari, chorizo, and piquillo peppers. Share entrees, too. Indulge in New York steak with braised shallots and french fries, or sop up every drop of the sweet and savory red-pepper sauce with the braised seafood and shellfish stew. Save room for orange blossom beignets: Light and airy, with a delicate and moist web of dough within and a kiss of orange essence, the beignet is dessert at its finest. There’s a communal table for drop-in diners and front patio seating during warmer weather.
1015 Battery St. (at Green St.). 415/391-2555. www.piperade.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $18–$30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–3pm and 5:30–10:30pm; Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Closed Sun. Bus: 10, 12, 30, or 82x.
The Stinking Rose ITALIAN Garlic is the “flower” from which this restaurant gets its name. From soup to ice cream, the supposedly healthful herb is a star ingredient in almost every dish. (“We season our garlic with food,” exclaims the menu.) From a gourmet point of view, the Stinking Rose is unremarkable. Pizzas, pastas, and meats smothered in simple, overpowering sauces are tasty, but they’re memorable only for their singular garlicky intensity. That said, this is a fun, albeit touristy place; the restaurant’s lively atmosphere and odoriferous aroma combine for good entertainment. The best dishes include iron-skillet-roasted mussels, shrimp, and crab with garlic sauce; smoked mozzarella, garlic, and tomato pizza; salt-roasted tiger prawns with garlic parsley glaze; and 40-clove garlic chicken (served with garlic mashed potatoes, of course). They even serve garlic martinis and—what else?—garlic ice cream from garlic mecca Gilroy for dessert. Note: For those who are not garlic-inclined, they offer garlic-free “Vampire Fare.”
325 Columbus Ave. (btw. Vallejo St. and Broadway). 415/781-7673. www.thestinkingrose.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $19–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am–11pm. Bus: 15, 30, 41, or 45.
Inexpensive
Caffè Sport ★ ITALIAN People either love or hate this stodgy, garlic-smelling Sicilian eatery. Every square inch is cluttered with hanging hams, fishnets, decorative plates, dolls, mirrors, and over 2 decades’ worth of dust; Caffè Sport was once a culinary landmark.