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their cloches: Spruce. In a beautifully restored 1930s-era auto barn, Spruce consists of a restaurant, cafe, bar, and lounge under a single roof, making it both a destination restaurant and a neighborhood hangout. As you enter, there’s a library nook on one side filled with newspapers, cookbooks, and so on, and a cafe on the other side offering gourmet take-away items. Farther inside is an elegant bar to the right and 70-seat restaurant to the left, both topped with a vast cathedral ceiling highlighted by a glass-and-steel skylight. With mohair couches, faux-ostrich chairs, and a black-and-chocolate decor, it’s all quite visually appealing, but, alas, the cuisine isn’t quite as impressive. The organic, locally sourced produce is wonderfully fresh, but many of the dishes I tried—spearmint and nettle ravioli, leek and fennel soup with salt cod dumplings, honey-lacquered duck breast—were lacking in flavor, and the service suffered from mysteriously long spells of absence. Spruce is still one of the exciting new restaurants in San Francisco, but it’s best enjoyed from a seat at the bar while tucking into their fantastic all-natural burger and fries and pondering which wine to choose from their 70 by-the-glass selections.

3640 Sacramento St. (at Spruce St.). 415/931-5100. www.sprucesf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $26–$40. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 11:30am–10pm; Sat–Sun 5–10pm. Valet parking $12 dinner only. Bus: 1, 2, or 4.

Expensive

Baker & Banker ★★★ CONTEMPORARY AMERICAN In my opinion, Baker & Banker is the most impressive restaurant to open in San Francisco in the past few years. Moving into the old Quince spot at the end of 2009, Baker & Banker never saw a lull period once it opened thanks to the power duo behind it—co-owners and spouses Jeff Banker (who mans the kitchen) and Lori Baker (the pastry chef who whips up such divine desserts)—who kept the cozy booths full thanks to their winning combination of superb cuisine and inviting atmosphere. (When Quince occupied the same digs, it was far too stuffy for my liking.)

Jeff’s signature dishes include the smoked trout, draped over a celery root latke and served with a horseradish crème fraîche with pickled beets and shaved fennel, and a black cod with foie gras–shiitake sticky rice accompanied by charred bok choy. But really you can’t go wrong with anything you order, whether you opt for the crepes filled with butternut squash and cavolo nero, or the scallops with Dungeness crab, Sardinian couscous, Pernod-saffron sauce, and Satsuma mandarin salad. Just don’t forget to save room for dessert, as that’s one of Baker & Banker’s specialties, thanks to Lori’s penchant for the sweet. The hot spiced butterscotch with homemade vanilla marshmallows and olive oil–fleur de sel biscotti is particularly mouthwatering. The restaurant offers a very affordable chef’s tasting menu for $55 a person, plus $35 for wine pairings. Baker & Banker also has a bakery component open during the day on the Bust Street side of the restaurant.

1701 Octavia St. (at Bush St.). 415/351-2500. www.bakerandbanker.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $20–$28. AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 5:30–10pm; Sun 5:30–9:30pm. Valet parking $10 dinner. Bus: 1, 2, 3, 47, 49, 76, or 90.

Moderate

Ace Wasabi’s Rock ’n’ Roll Sushi ★ JAPANESE/SUSHI What differentiates this Marina hot spot from the usual sushi spots around town are the unique combinations, the varied menu, and the young, hip atmosphere. The innovative rolls are a nice change for those bored with traditional styles, but don’t worry if someone in your party isn’t a raw fish fan: There are also plenty of non-seafood and cooked items on the menu. Don’t miss the rainbow “Three Amigos” roll, or the “Flying Kamikaze” with spicy albacore tuna wrapped around asparagus and topped with ponzu and scallions. The service, like the surroundings, is jovial.

3339 Steiner St. (at Chestnut St.). 415/567-4903. Reservations not accepted. Sushi $4–$14. AE, MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–11pm; Sun 5–10pm. Bus: 30.

A16 ★★ ITALIAN This sleek, casual, and