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wonderfully lively spot is one of San Francisco’s best and busiest Italian restaurants, featuring thin-crust Neapolitan-style pizza and cuisine from the region of Campania. Named after the motorway that traverses the region, the divided space boasts a wine and beer bar up front, a larger dining area and open kitchen in the back, and a wall of wines in between. But its secret weapon is the creative menu of outstanding appetizers, pizza, and entrees—with ingredients sourced fresh from local farms. Even if you must hoard the insanely good roast Berkshire pork ribs and shoulder for yourself, start by sharing roasted Monterey sardines with citrus, fennel, and green olives, or artichoke and tuna conserva with dried favas, braised bitter greens, and house-made croccantini. If meatballs are on the menu, don’t ask questions—get ’em. Co-owner and wine director Shelley Lindgren guides diners through one of the city’s most exciting wine lists, featuring 40 wines by the half-glass, glass, and carafe.

2355 Chestnut St. (btw. Divisadero and Scott sts.). 415/771-2216. www.a16sf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $10–$16 lunch, $11–$25 dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. Wed–Fri 11:30am–2:30pm; Sun–Thurs 5–10pm; Fri–Sat 5–11pm. Bus: 22, 30, or 30X.

Betelnut ★ SOUTHEAST ASIAN Although San Francisco is teeming with Asian restaurants, few offer the posh, fashionable dining environment of this restaurant on upscale Union Street. As the menu explains, the restaurant is themed after Pejui Wu, a traditional Asian beer house offering local brews and savory dishes. But with the bamboo paneling, red Formica countertops, and low-hanging lamps, the place feels less like an authentic harbor restaurant and more like a set out of Shanghai Surprise. Still, the atmosphere is en vogue, with dimly lit booths, ringside seating overlooking the bustling stir-fry chefs, sidewalk tables (weather permitting), and body-to-body flirting at the cramped but festive bar. Lots of small plates make for a great night of grazing. Starters include sashimi and tasty salt-and-pepper whole gulf prawns; main courses to consider include wok-seared Mongolian beef and Singapore chili crab (seasonal). Whatever you do, order their heavenly signature dessert: a mouthwatering tapioca pudding with sweet red adzuki beans.

2030 Union St. (at Buchanan St.). 415/929-8855. www.betelnutrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9.50–$21. DC, DISC, MC, V. Sun–Thurs 11:30am–11pm; Fri–Sat 11:30am–midnight. Bus: 22, 41, or 45.

Dosa ★★ SOUTHERN INDIAN This favorite locals’ spot has been dubbed the city’s best Indian by the media for a reason. Dosa offers fresh, organic ingredients, reasonable prices, and a much more authentic cuisine than its Americanized competitors. This new outpost is more dressed up (read: swankier) than its casual Mission location (995 Valencia St.; 415/642-3672) but serves the same winning dishes. The southern Indian menu has an entire section devoted to its namesake, dosa (a savory rice and lentil crepe with sambar and tomato and coconut chutney), as well as several uttapam dishes (a thicker pancakelike variation on the dosa). Order a couple kinds to share, family style. For an entree, opt for the vegetable korma and paratha (cauliflower, green beans, peas, potatoes, poppy seeds, fennel, and coconut), or cilantro and chili fish with a side of basmati rice (aromatically flavored with either jasmine or lemon). Don’t pass on dessert: The banana uttapam (layered with strawberries, chocolate, and white shrikhand) is divine. Drinks are creatively named and concocted. A signature four-course tasting menu is $39 and the best way to adequately sample the cuisine. Tack on $20 for wine pairings.

1700 Fillmore St. (at Post St.). 415/441-3672. www.dosasf.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7–$28. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am–3pm and 5:30pm–midnight. Bus: 2, 3, 4, 22, 38, or 38L.

E’Angelo Restaurant ★ ITALIAN Back when I was barely making enough to cover my rent, I would often treat myself to a night out at E’Angelo. All the house specialties, pastas, and pizzas