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cost less than $19; the atmosphere is casual and fun; tables are cozy-cramped; and the Italian staff is friendly. For me, the combination made not only for a hearty meal, but for an opportunity to mingle with San Francisco: to live a little, eavesdrop on neighbors’ conversations, and perhaps even run into local celebrities such as Robin Williams with his family. While years have passed, not much has changed at this traditional Italian hot spot: The place still won’t take reservations or credit cards. It still serves decent portions of pastas, veal, lamb, chicken, and fish; a carafe of red or white wine for about 18 bucks (thrifty by-the-bottle prices, too); and one heck of a rich eggplant parmigiana. And unlike those at most of the neighboring restaurants, desserts are dirt-cheap.

2234 Chestnut St. (btw. Pierce and Scott sts.). 415/567-6164. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $13–$19. No credit cards. Tues–Sun 5–10:30pm. Bus: 22, 30, or 30X.

Ella’s ★★ AMERICAN/BREAKFAST Well known throughout town as the undisputed queen of breakfasts, this restaurant’s acclaim means you’re likely to wait in line up to an hour on weekends. But midweek and in the wee hours of morning, it’s possible to slide onto a counter or table seat in the colorful split dining room and lose yourself in outstanding and generous servings of chicken hash, crisped to perfection and served with eggs any way you like them, with a side of fluffy buttermilk biscuits. Pancakes, omelets, and the short list of other breakfast essentials are equally revered. Service can be woefully slow, but at least the busboys and -gals are quick to fill coffee cups. Come lunchtime, solid entrees like salads, chicken potpie, and grilled salmon with mashed potatoes remind you what’s great about American cooking.

500 Presidio Ave. (at California St.). 415/441-5669. www.ellassanfrancisco.com. Reservations accepted for lunch. Main courses $5.50–$11 breakfast, $9.75–$12 brunch, $9–$13 lunch. AE, DISC, MC, V. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat–Sun 8:30am–2pm. Bus: 1, 3, or 43.

Greens Restaurant ★★ VEGETARIAN In an old waterfront warehouse, with enormous windows overlooking the Golden Gate, boats, and the bay, Greens reigns over gourmet vegetarian—a pioneer in the city and one of the most renowned vegetarian restaurants in the country. Executive chef Annie Somerville (author of Fields of Greens) cooks with the seasons, using produce from local organic farms. Brunch is a boisterous affair, but on a weeknight, the dining room is quiet and romantic, especially when the fog is in. Dinner might feature such appetizers as grilled asparagus with Meyer lemon vinaigrette, shaved Andante cheese, and warm butter beans, or grilled portobello and endive salad. Entrees run the gamut from pizza with wilted escarole, red onions, lemon, and Parmesan to wild mushroom ravioli with chanterelle, hedgehog, and maitake mushrooms, savoy spinach, and spring onions. Those interested in the whole shebang should make reservations for the $49 four-course dinner served on Saturday only. Lunch and brunch are equally fresh, tasty—and crowded. The adjacent Greens To Go sells sandwiches, soups, salads, and so on.

Building A, Fort Mason Center (enter Fort Mason opposite the Safeway at Buchanan and Marina sts.). 415/771-6222. www.greensrestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $11–$18 lunch, $15–$20 dinner; fixed-price dinner $48; Sun brunch $11–$17. AE, DISC, MC, V. Tues–Sat noon–2:30pm; Sun 10:30am–9pm; Mon–Sat 5:30–9pm. Greens To Go Mon–Thurs 8am–8pm; Fri–Sat 8am–5pm; Sun 10:30am–4pm. Parking in hourly lot $4 for up to 21⁄2 hr. Bus: 28 or 30.

Isa ★★ FRENCH Luke Sung, who trained with some of the best French chefs in the city, has captured many locals’ hearts by creating the kind of menu we foodies dream of: a smattering of small dishes, served a la carte family style, that allow you to try numerous items in one sitting. It’s a good thing that the menu, considered “French tapas,” offers small portions at reasonable prices. After all, it’s asking a lot to make a diner choose from mushroom ragout with veal sweetbreads,