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seared foie gras with caramelized apples, potato-wrapped sea bass in brown butter, and rack of lamb. Here a party of two can choose all of these plus one or two more and not be rolled out the door afterward. Adding to the allure is the warm boutique dining environment—70 seats scattered amid a small dining room in the front, and a large tented and heated patio out back that sets the mood with a warm yellow glow. Take a peek at the “kitchen,” a shoebox of a cooking space, to appreciate Sung’s accomplishments even more. Cocktailers, take note: You’ll find only beer, wine, and shoju cocktails (a smooth alcohol made from sweet potato and used like vodka).

3324 Steiner St. (btw. Lombard and Chestnut sts.). 415/567-9588. www.isarestaurant.com. Reservations recommended. Main courses $9–$16. MC, V. Mon–Thurs 5:30–10pm; Fri–Sat 5:30–10:30pm. Bus: 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43, or 76.

Pane e Vino ★ ITALIAN While the rest of the city tries to modernize their manicotti, this ultracasual Italian spot focuses on huge helpings of classics that are fine for the traditional diner, but not fabulous for the gourmand. That said, prices are reasonable, and the mostly Italian-accented staff is always smooth and efficient under pressure (you’ll see). The menu offers a wide selection of appetizers, including a fine carpaccio, vitello tonnato (sliced roasted veal and capers in lemony tuna sauce), and the hugely popular chilled artichoke stuffed with bread and tomatoes and served with vinaigrette. The broad selection of pastas includes flavorful penne puttanesca with tomatoes, capers, anchovies, garlic, and olives. Other specialties are grilled fish and meat dishes, including chicken breast marinated in lime juice and herbs. Top dessert picks are any of the Italian ice creams, panna cotta, and (but of course) creamy tiramisu.

1715 Union St. (btw. Gough and Octavia sts.). 415/346-2111. www.paneevinotrattoria.com. Reservations highly recommended. Main courses $14–$29. AE, MC, V. Daily 5–10pm. No parking. Bus: 41 or 45.

Inexpensive

Barney’s Gourmet Hamburgers ★ HAMBURGERS If you’re on a perpetual quest for a good burger, a mandatory stop is Barney’s Gourmet Hamburgers. Once you get past all the framed awards for the Bay Area’s best burger, you’re bombarded by a mind-boggling menu of beef, chicken, turkey, and vegetarian burgers to choose from, as well as sandwiches and salads. The ultimate combo is a humongous basket of fries (enough for a party of three), one-third-pound burger, and thick shake. Popular versions are the California Burger with jack cheese, bacon, Ortega chilies, and sour cream, or the Popeye Burger made with chicken, sautéed spinach, and feta cheese. Be sure to dine alfresco in the hidden courtyard in back. Note: There is another San Francisco location in Noe Valley at 4138 24th St., as well as eight other spots in the Bay Area.

3344 Steiner St. (btw. Chestnut and Lombard sts.). 415/563-0307. www.barneyshamburgers.com. Main courses $5–$8. No credit cards. Mon–Thurs 11am–9:30pm; Fri–Sat 11am–10pm; Sun 11am–9pm. Bus: 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43, 76, or 82X.

Eliza’s ★ CHINESE Despite the curiously colorful design of modern architecture, whimsy, and glass art, this perennially packed neighborhood haunt serves some of the freshest California-influenced Chinese food in town. Unlike comparable options, here the atmosphere (albeit unintentionally funky) and presentation parallel the food. The fantastically fresh soups, salads, seafood, pork, chicken, duck, and such specials as spicy eggplant are outstanding and are served on beautiful English and Japanese plates. (Get the sea bass with black-bean sauce and go straight to heaven!) I often come at midday and order the wonderful kung pao chicken lunch special (available weekdays only): a mixture of tender chicken, peanuts, chili peppers, subtly hot sauce, and perfectly crunchy vegetables. It’s one of 32 main-course choices that come with rice and soup for around $6. The place is also jumping at night, so prepare to stand in line.

2877 California St. (at Broderick St.). 415/621-4819. Reservations accepted