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EATING

Once considered a gastronomic wasteland, Berlin now packs in a lot of flavour as bright young chefs have become bolder and more experimental in their kitchens. Even those finicky Michelin testers have confirmed that Berlin is ripe for the culinary big league by awarding coveted stars to 10 chefs. Fortunately, you don’t need deep pockets to please your tummy since some of the best eating is actually done in neighbourhood restaurants like Cafe Jacques.

Berlin’s multicultural tapestry has brought the world’s foods to town, from Austrian schnitzel to Zambian zebra steaks. Vegetarian restaurants are sprouting as fast as alfalfa, as are ‘bio’ (organic) eateries. In fact, Berlin lays claim to being home to Germany’s first organic fast-food restaurant, Yellow Sunshine and first carbon-neutral restaurant, Foodorama.

Another hot trend: Asian lifestyle eateries. The concept – soups plus a few daily changing specials served in designer ambience – was pioneered a few years back by Monsieur Vuong (right) and has since been copied ad nauseam.

One of life’s little luxuries is a leisurely breakfast, and Berliners have just about perfected the art – especially on Sundays when many cafes dish out lavish all-you-can-eat buffets. International fast-food chains are ubiquitous, but the most beloved home-grown fast-food is Currywurst, a slivered, subtly spiced pork sausage swimming in tom-ato sauce and sprinkled with curry powder. Another local favourite is the Döner (doner kebab), a lightly toasted bread pocket stuffed with thinly shaved veal or chicken and salad and doused with garlicky yoghurt sauce.

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Mitte

Café Nord-Sud (Map; 9700 5928; Auguststrasse 87; 3-course meal €7.50; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Truth be told, this place we’d rather keep secret. It’s just one of those little gems, you know, always packed to the rafters thanks to Jean-Claude’s Gallic charm, the kitchen’s formidable talents and the rock-bottom prices.

Schwarzwaldstuben (Map; 2809 8084; Tucholskystrasse 48; mains €7-14; 9am-midnight; ) The tongue-in-cheek olde-worlde decor is as delicious as the authentic southern German food served in gut-busting portions at this cosy corner joint. We can’t get enough of the geschmelzte Maultaschen (sautéed ravioli-like pasta) but all goes down well with a Rothaus Tannenzäpfle beer, straight from the Black Forest.

Ishin (Map; 2067 4829; Mittelstrasse 24; platters €7-18; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat) This cafeteria-style sushi parlour scores two for looks and 10 for freshness and value. Prices drop even lower during Happy Hour (all day Wednesday and Saturday and 11am to 4pm on other days). Nice touch: the unlimited free green tea.

Monsieur Vuong (Map; 3087 2643; Alte Schönhauser Strasse 46; mains €7.50; noon-midnight) This upbeat Indochina nosh stop hasn’t lost a step despite becoming a fixture on the tourist circuit. From the flavour-packed soups to the fragrant rice and noodle dishes, it’s all delicious even if the steady queue does not make for leisurely meals. Afternoons are slowest.

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BERLIN’S BEST…

Asian – Edd’s Click here

Celebrity Spotting – Grill Royal (above)

Currywurst – Curry 36 Click here

Döner – Schlemmerbuffet

German – Engelbecken

Gourmet – Facil

Neighbourhood restaurant – Cafe Jacques

Riverside dining – Spindler & Klatt

Vegetarian – Cookies Cream

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Tartane (Map; 4472 7036; Torstrasse 225; mains €8-18; 6pm-2am) The lamps and Meissen tile mural are scavenged from the demolished GDR-era Palast der Republik, but otherwise this stylish gastro pub is very much in the here and now. Most nights tables buzz with an arty, local crowd wolfing Tartane’s luscious signature burgers and downing glasses of refreshing Kölsch beer from Cologne.

Zur Letzten Instanz (Map; 242 5528; Waisenstrasse 14-16; mains €9-18; noon-1am Mon-Sat) Oozing folksy Old Berlin charm, this rustic eatery has been an enduring hit since 1621 and has fed everyone from Napoleon to Angela Merkel. It’s one