Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [101]
Kasbah (Map; 2759 4361; Gipsstrasse 2; mains €11-16; dinner Tue-Sun) Take your tastebuds on a magic carpet ride at this exotic salon where owner Driss welcomes each guest with a big smile. Eating here is a sensory immersion that starts with rinsing your hands in rosewater before digging into such tasty treats as flaky b’stilla (chicken-stuffed filo) or tangy tagine (stew). The Moroccan wine is excellent too.
Cookies Cream (Map; 2749 2940; Friedrichstrasse 158; 3-course meal €30; dinner Tue-Sat) Combining coolness with substance, this great hidden eatery is reached via the service alley of the Westin Grand Hotel. Upstairs awaits an elegantly industrial space where flesh-free but flavour-packed dishes are brought to linen-draped tables. It’s all so good and gorgeous, even diehard meatheads should have no complaints.
Grill Royal (Map; 2887 9288; Friedrichstrasse 105b; mains €16-48; dinner) A platinum card is a handy accessory at this ‘look-at-me’ temple, where politicians, Russian oligarchs, pouting models and ‘trustafarians’ can be seen slurping oysters and tucking into wagyū steak. The entrance is on the canalside below the hotel.
Other faves:
Schlemmerbuffet (Map; 283 2153; Torstrasse 125; Döner €2.50; 24hr) The best Döner in town. Enough said.
Dolores (Map; 2809 9597; Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 7; dishes €6; 11.30am-10pm Mon-Fri, 1-10pm Sat & Sun) Build-your-own burritos.
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Prenzlauer Berg
Konnopke Imbiss (Map; 442 7765; Schönhauser Allee 44a; dishes €1.30-3.90; 6am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-7pm Sat) Legendary Currywurst kitchen.
Hans Wurst (Map; 4171 7822; Dunckerstrasse 2a; mains €4-9; noon-midnight Tue-Sun) The name is a bit of a tease, for you definitely won’t find any wurst (sausage) in this stylish vegan cafe. In fact, Michael Ristock is a veritable genius when it comes to coaxing maximum flavour out of organic, fair-trade and animal-free ingredients. Perks: great music, relaxed crowd and pizza too.
Schusterjunge (Map; 442 7654; Danziger Strasse 9; mains €4-12; 11am-midnight) This rustic corner joint doles out authentic Berlin charm with as much abandon as the delish home cooking. Big platters of goulash, pork roast and Sauerbraten (vinegar-marinated and braised beef) feed both tummy and soul, and so do the locally brewed Bürgerbräu and Bernauer Schwarzbier.
Fellas (Map; 4679 6314; Stargarder Strasse 3; mains €7-18; 10am-1am; ) This unhurried bistro employs cooks surely destined for fancier places. The regular menu has great salads and schnitzel, but the most creativity goes into the big-flavoured weekly specials. Or come just for a snack and wine.
Oderquelle (Map; 4400 8080; Oderberger Strasse 27; mains €8-16; dinner) If this restaurant weren’t so darn popular, you’d just pop in for a beer and a casual but well-crafted German meal. But, alas, without a reservation, chances of scoring a table after 8pm are practically nil, although the bar stools might do in a pinch.
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Potsdamer Platz & Tiergarten
Edd’s (Map; 215 5294; Lützowstrasse 81; mains €14-25; lunch Tue-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun) Edd’s grandma used to cook for Thai royals and the man himself has regaled Berlin foodies for over three decades with such palate-pleasers as twice-roasted duck, chicken steamed in banana leaves and curries that are poetry on a plate. Reservations essential.
Facil (Map; 590 051 234; 5th fl, Mandala Hotel, Potsdamer Strasse 3; 1-/2-course lunch €18/28, 4-/7-course dinner €80/120; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) With its sleek Donghia chairs, alabaster lamps and honey-hued natural stone, this glass garden at the Mandala Hotel is as breathtaking as Michael Kempf’s Michelin-starred fare. Budget gourmets should come for lunch.
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Kreuzberg
Burgermeister (Map; 2243 6493; Oberbaum-strasse 8; burger €3; 11am-2am or later) A burger joint in a century-old public toilet on a traffic island below the elevated U-Bahn tracks? Don’t fret, don’t shudder, for the patties here are big and delicious.
Yellow Sunshine