Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [126]
The Spreewald is also home base to large numbers of Germany’s Sorbian minority (see the boxed text, opposite).
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Getting There & Around
Frequent regional trains depart central Berlin (eg Hauptbahnhof) for Lübben (€9.10, one hour) and Lübbenau (€10.40, 1¼ hours) en route to Cottbus (€13, 1¾ hours). The towns are also linked by an easy 13km trail along the Spree. Cyclists can explore the region by following a section of the 250km Gurkenradweg (Cucumber Trail). Rent bikes from Spreewaldradler/Vitalpunkt ( 035603-158 790; bikes per day €8-17) right at the Lübben train station.
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LÜBBEN
03546 / pop 14,350
Compared to Lübbenau, about 13km southeast, tidy Lübben feels more like a ‘real’ town and has a history going back at least two centuries further than its neighbour. Activity centres on the Schloss and the adjacent harbour area, both about 1.5km east of the train station. Follow Bahnhofstrasse southeast, turn left on Logenstrasse and continue to Ernst-von-Houwald-Damm, where you’ll also find the tourist office ( 3090; www.luebben.de; Ernst-von-Houwald-Damm 15; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct, to 4pm Mon-Fri Nov-Mar). The Markt and Hauptstrasse are two blocks north.
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Sights & Activities
The prettiest building in town is the compact Schloss ( 187 478; Ernst-von-Houwald-Damm 14; adult/concession €4/2; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Wed-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun Nov-Mar), which contains a progressively presented regional history museum; look for the interactive town model and a 2m-long medieval executioner’s sword. The real highlight, though, is a (free) wander around the Schlossinsel, an artificial archipelago with gardens, a leafy maze, playgrounds, cafes and the harbour area where you can board punts for leisurely tours (from €8/4 per adult/child). If you’d rather go at your own speed, rent a canoe or kayak from Bootsverleih Gebauer ( 7194; Lindenstrasse 18; per 2hr from €8).
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 3046; www.jh-luebben.de, in German; Zum Wendenfürsten 8; dm €14.50-17.50; ) This 127-bed hostel is right on the Spree, about 3km south of the train station, and also has campsites (€10, including breakfast).
Hotel Lindengarten ( 4172; www.spreewald-luebben.de; Treppendorfer Damm 15; s/d €50/70; ) This family-run hotel is a class act all around and has bright and airy rooms, youthful flair and a nice restaurant that serves tapas and regional fare.
Spreewaldhotel Stephanshof ( 272 10; www.hotel-stephanshof.de, in German; Lehnigksberger Weg 1; s €65, d €90-95, discount Nov-Mar; ) About a 10-minute walk north of the centre, this modern riverside hotel has its own boat landing, a regional restaurant and bike rentals. Some rooms have balconies.
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Eating
Ladencafé im Alten Gärtnerhaus ( 186 956; Ernst-von-Houwald-Damm 6; mains €4-10; ) Lovingly decorated, this little cottage with a small beer garden out back serves tasty Mediterranean fare and also sells local crafts and handmade products. It’s in the former palace gardener’s house.
Goldener Löwe ( 7309; Hauptstrasse 15; mains €7-11) This old-fashioned restaurant is an ambience-laden purveyor of regional fare, including a fish platter featuring eel, perch and carp. In summer, enjoy your meal in the beer garden. They also have a few rooms for rent (singles/doubles/triples €45/65/95), in case you feel like dawdling.
Bubak ( 186 144; Ernst-von-Houwald-Damm 9; mains €5-16; 11.30am-10pm) Close to the Schloss, this characterful roadside restaurant was named for a local bogeyman and has weekly concerts starring its singing proprietor. The menu is a mix of typical Spreewald dishes and classic German food, all prepared creatively and using local products whenever possible.
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THE SORBS
The Spreewald region is part of the area inhabited by the Sorbs, Germany’s only indigenous minority.