Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [127]
Lusatia was conquered by the Germans in the 10th century, subjected to brutal Germanisation throughout the Middle Ages and partitioned in 1815. Lower Sorbia, centred around the Spreewald and Cottbus (Chośebuz), went to Prussia, while Upper Sorbia, around Bautzen (Budyšin), went to Saxony. The Upper Sorbian dialect, closely related to Czech, enjoyed a certain prestige in Saxony, but the Kingdom of Prussia tried to suppress Lower Sorbian, which is similar to Polish. The Nazis, of course, tried to eradicate both.
The Sorbs were protected under the GDR and since reunification interest in the culture has been revived through the media and colourful Sorbian festivals such as the Vogelhochzeit (Birds’ Wedding) on 25 January and a symbolic ‘witch-burning’ on 30 April.
For further details, contact the Sorbian Institute ( 03591-497 20; www.serbski-institut.de, in German) in Bautzen or the Institute of Sorbian Studies ( 0341-973 7650; www.uni-leipzig.de/~sorb) in Leipzig.
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LÜBBENAU
03542 / pop 17,300
Lübbenau is prettier than Lübben but has more of a model-village air, despite being considerably bigger overall. The entire Altstadt is a forest of signs pointing to hotels, restaurants and other businesses, making navigating a snap. Near the church you’ll find the tourist office ( 3668; www.spreewald-online.de; Ehm-Welk-Strasse 15; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun). The train station is on Poststrasse, about 600m south of the Altstadt.
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Sights & Activities
Behind the tourist office, the Haus für Mensch und Natur ( 892 10; Schulstrasse 9; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct) has exhibits and information about the Spreewald Biosphere Reserve. If you’re interested in the region’s cultural history, visit the Spreewald-Museum ( 2472; Am Topfmarkt; adult/concession/family €3/2/5; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–Oct) inside a historic brick building that’s gone through stints as a courthouse, jail and town hall.
Several operators offer pretty much the same punt boating tours, including the popular two-hour trip to Lehde (€8.50), a completely protected village known as the ‘Venice of the Spreewald’. Here you’ll find the wonderful Freilandmuseum ( 2472; adult/concession/family €3/2/5; 10am-6pm Apr–mid-Sep, to 5pm mid-Sep–Oct), an open-air museum of traditional Sorbian houses and farm buildings. Lehde is also reached via an easy 30-minute trail.
The main embarkation points are the Kleiner Hafen ( 403 710; www.spreewald-web.de; Spreestrasse 10a), about 100m northeast of the tourist office, and the more workmanlike Grosser Hafen ( 2225; www.grosser-spreewaldhafen.de; Dammstrasse 77a), 300m southeast. Buy tickets at the embarkation points or from the captain. Active types can hire canoes and kayaks from several outfitters, including Bootsverleih Francke ( 2722; Dammstrasse 72), for €2 to €5 per hour or €12 to €25 per day, depending on size.
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Sleeping & Eating
Check with the tourist office about private rooms (from €14) or simply walk about town and look for signs saying Gästezimmer.
Naturcamping am Schlosspark ( 3533; www.spreewaldcamping.de, in German; Schlossbezirk 20; adult/child/tent €6/3/6, 2-person cabins €20) This four-star campsite, just east of the Schloss, has lots of amenities, including bike and canoe rentals.
Pension am Alten Bauernhafen ( 2930; www.am-alten-bauernhafen.de, in German; Stottoff 5; s from €30, d €42-48; ) Charmingly decorated, with large rooms and a fantastic riverside location, this big, family-run house is a fine base of operation. The owner couple grows their own organic vegetables and make many of the breakfast products themselves.
Hotel Schloss Lübbenau ( 8730; www.schloss-luebbenau.de; Schlossbezirk 6; s €58-92, d €92-148; ) Check in at this handsome palace for a surprisingly