Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [269]
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Self-Catering
At the Viktualienmarkt (Map), south of Marienplatz, deep-pocketed travellers can put together a gourmet picnic of breads, cheeses and salad to take off to a beer garden or the Englischer Garten. For cheaper and fresher fare, head to the Turkish grocery stores around Schillerstrasse, Goethestrasse and Landwehrstrasse in Ludwigsvorstadt.
Alois Dallmayr (Map; 213 50; Dienerstrasse 14) For a world-class selection of deli goods try the legendary Alois Dallmayr with a spread of exotic foods from every corner of the earth.
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DRINKING
To state the blindingly obvious, beer drinking forms a major part of Munich’s nightlife. Though consumption is falling, Germans still guzzle an average of 112L of the amber liquid per person per year, but Bavarians average a belly-bursting 170L!
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Beer Halls & Gardens
One of the most enjoyable ways to sample Bavaria’s best brews is in the local beer halls and gardens. People come here primarily to drink and, although food may be served, it is generally an afterthought – for food options at beer halls, see the boxed text, Click here. A few places still allow you to bring along a picnic lunch and just buy the beer, but in most cases outside food is forbidden.
Most places listed here are either gardens or gardens-cum-restaurants; almost all open from 10am to at least 10pm. Even in the touristy places, be careful not to sit at the Stammtisch, a table reserved for regulars (there will be a brass plaque).
You sometimes have to pay a Pfand (deposit) for the glasses (usually €2.50). Beer costs around €5 to €6.50 per litre.
ALTSTADT
Hofbräuhaus (Map; 221 676; Am Platzl 9) This is certainly the best-known and most celebrated beer hall in Bavaria, but apart from a few local yokels you’ll be in the company of tourists. A live band is condemned to play Bavarian folk music most of the day.
Augustiner-Grossgaststätte (Map; 2318 3257; Neuhauser Strasse 27) This sprawling place has a less raucous atmosphere and superior food to the usual offerings. Altogether it’s a much more authentic example of an old-style Munich beer hall, complete with secluded courtyards and hunting trophies.
Braunauer Hof (Map; 223 613; Frauenstrasse 42) This pleasantly warped beer garden has a hedge maze, a bizarre wall mural and a golden bull that’s illuminated at night.
ENGLISCHER GARTEN
There are three beer gardens in the park (Map).
Chinesischer Turm ( 383 8730; Englischer Garten 3) This is an institution known to every Münchener from an early age. The popular watering hole derives extra atmosphere from a classic Chinese pagoda and entertainment by a good-time oompah band (in an upper floor of the tower, fenced in like the Blues Brothers).
There are two other beer gardens better suited for families and sweethearts: Hirschau ( 369 942; Gysslingstrasse 15) and Seehaus ( 381 6130; Kleinhesselohe 3) are both on the shores of the park’s glistening ponds.
NEUHAUSEN
Augustiner Keller (off Map; 594 393; Arnulfstrasse 52) Every year this leafy 5000-seat beer garden, about 500m west of the Hauptbahnhof, buzzes with activity from the first hint of springtime. It’s a beautiful spot with a laid-back atmosphere ideal for leisurely drinking.
Löwenbräukeller (Map; 526 021; Nymphenburger Strasse 2) This enormous beer hall is a local fixture for its regular Bavarian music and heel-slapping dances. During the Starkbierzeit (the springtime ‘strong beer season’), the famous stone-lifting contests are held here. A beer garden rambles round the entire complex.
Hirschgarten (Map; 172 591; Hirschgartenallee 1) Locals and savvy visitors flock to the Hirschgarten, just south of Schloss Nymphenburg. This quaint country beer garden has deer wandering just the other side of the fence. To get there take the S-Bahn to Laim.
HAIDHAUSEN
Hofbräukeller (Map; 448 7376; Innere Wiener Strasse 19) Not to be confused with its better-known cousin in the city centre, this sprawling, very