Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [270]
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Bars & Pubs
ALTSTADT & AROUND
Alter Simpl (Map; 272 3083; Türkenstrasse 57; mains €6-13) This watering hole has good jazz, a reasonable menu and an art-house vibe. Thomas Mann and Hermann Hesse were among the writers and artists that used to meet here in the early 20th century.
Dreigroschenkeller (Map; 489 0290; Lilienstrasse 2) A cosy and labyrinthine cellar pub with rooms based upon Bertolt Brecht’s Die Dreigroschenoper (The Threepenny Opera), ranging from a prison cell to a red satiny salon. There are nine types of beer to choose from and an extensive menu of hearty German soak-up material.
Jodlerwirt (Map; 221 249; Altenhofstrasse 4; from 6pm Tue-Sat) One of Munich’s earthiest pubs has an accordion-playing host and stand-up comic who spread good cheer in yodelling sessions at the upstairs bar. By the end of the evening you’ll find yourself swaying arm-in-arm with complete strangers.
Other recommendations:
Baader Café (Map; 201 0638; Baaderstrasse 47) A literary think-and-drink place with a high celebrity quotient and possibly the best Sunday brunch in town.
Pacific Times (Map; 2023 9470; Baaderstrasse 28) Trendy joint decked out in dark wood and wicker chairs to attract the beautiful people.
SCHWABING
If you want a variety of hip bars within spitting distance of each other, then Leopoldstrasse is for you.
Roxy (Map; 349 292; Leopoldstrasse 48) The place to talent spot and people-watch. This slick bar attracts a designer crowd keen to hang out, look good and sip cocktails. By day it offers surprisingly good food at decent prices.
News Bar (Map; 281 787; Amalienstrasse 55; mains €6-11) This trendy cafe has a great selection of magazines and newspapers (including English ones) for sale. It’s an ideal spot for brunch or a lazy morning poring over a paper.
News Café (Map; 3838 0600; Leopoldstrasse 74) Not just another news-bar clone, the plush leather seating, rows of glowing red lamps and African-inspired art make this hip joint a great place to hang out. The €6.90 ‘business lunch’ is one of the best deals in town.
EXPAT PUBS
Munich has a large English-speaking expat population, and enterprising Irish, Brits and Aussies have opened numerous just-like-home pubs with a friendly welcome. Most have live music and other events at least once a week.
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AND THERE’S FOOD, TOO
In beer gardens, tables laid with a cloth and utensils are reserved for people ordering food. If you’re only planning a serious drinking session, or if you have brought along a picnic, don’t sit there.
If you do decide to order food, you’ll find very similar menus at all beer gardens. Typical dishes include roast chicken (about €9 for a half), spare ribs (about €11.50, and probably not worth it), huge pretzels (about €4) and Bavarian specialities such as Schweinebraten (roast pork) and Schnitzel (veal; €9 to €12).
Radi is a huge, mild radish that’s eaten with beer; you can buy prepared radish for about €4.50. Or, buy a radish at the market and a Radimesser at any department store, stick it down in the centre and twist the handle round and round, creating a radish spiral. If you do it yourself, smother the cut end of the radish with salt until it weeps to reduce the bitterness – and increase your thirst!
Obatzda is Bavarian for ‘mixed up’. This cream cheeselike speciality is made of butter, ripe Camembert, onion and caraway (about €4 to €6). Spread it on Brez’n (a pretzel) or bread.
Another speciality is Leberkäs (liver cheese), which is nothing to do with liver or cheese but is instead a type of meatloaf that gets its name from its shape. It’s usually eaten with sweet mustard and soft pretzels.
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Molly Malone’s (Map; 688 7510; Kellerstrasse 21) If you’re pining for shepherd’s pie, fish and chips or a curry just two days into a RTW trip, this atmospheric award-winning