Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [313]
Café am Trödelmarkt ( 208 877; Trödelmarkt; dishes €5-9) A gorgeous spot on a sunny day, the ‘Fleamarket Cafe’ overlooking the covered Henkersteg bridge is an excellent choice for breakfast or lunch. A menu of salads, filled baguettes and a bevy of seasonal dishes such as asparagus or freshwater fish may soon see you back for second helpings.
Barfüsser Kleines Brauhaus ( 204 242; Königstrasse 60; mains €6-15) This Nuremberg institution is housed in an atmospheric old grain warehouse packed with copper vats, enamel advertising plaques and oodles of other knick-knacks. The cavernous vaulted cellar is the place to install yourself in the company of an Eichenholzfässchen, a 5L oak-wood keg of beer.
Enchilada ( 244 8498; Obstmarkt 5; mains €6-18) This Mexican haunt with faux adobe walls does generous taco platters, burritos and nachos in a candlelit setting. Later on, the cocktail lists come out for the patrons flowing in from the Hauptmarkt nearby.
Burgwächter ( 222 126; Am Ölberg 10; mains €7-15) Refuel after a tour of the Kaiserburg with prime steaks, Bratwurst with potato salad, homemade filled pastas and salads, as you feast your eyes on the best terrace views from any city eatery. With kids in tow, ask for Kloss, a simple dumpling with sauce dish (€3.20).
Heilig-Geist-Spital ( 221 761; Spitalgasse 12; mains €7-17) Lots of dark carved wood, a herd of hunting trophies and a romantic candlelit half-light make this former hospital one of the most atmospheric dining rooms in town. Sample the delicious, seasonally changing menu inside or out in the pretty courtyard, where the tinkle of cutlery on plate competes with a dribbling fountain.
Hütt’n ( 201 9881; Burgstrasse 19; mains €7-17) This local haunt is perpetually overflowing with admirers of Krustenschäufele (roast pork with crackling, dumplings and sauerkraut salad) so be prepared to queue. It’s also a good place to down a few tankards of Franconian Landbier.
Marientorzwinger ( 274 2784; Lorenzer-strasse 33; mains €8-17) This is the last remaining Zwinger eatery (taverns built between the inner and outer walls when they relinquished their military use) in Nuremberg. Chomp on sturdy Franconian staples or a vegie dish in the simple wood-panelled dining room or the leafy beer garden, and swab the decks with a yard of Fürth-brewed Tucher.
Also recommended:
Kettensteg ( 221 081; Maxplatz 35; mains €6-14) Nuremberg’s best open-air option far from the tourist march serving light seasonal twists on Franconian fare.
Zunftstübchen ( 180 9207; Am Ölberg 35; mains €7-10; closed Mon & Tue) Historic place serving a reassuringly short and simple menu of Central European favourites.
QUICK EATS
Naturkostladen Lotos ( 243 598; Unschlittplatz 1; dishes €2.50-7) Unclog arteries and blast free radicals with a blitz of grain burgers, spinach soup or vegie pizza at this health-food shop. The fresh bread and cheese counter is a treasure chest of nutritious picnic supplies.
Souptopia ( 240 6697; Lorenzer Strasse 27; soups €2.80-6.50; closed Sun) Like-granny-used-to-make soups, backed up by a good choice of sandwiches, salads and other vegie options, make this a fantastic hole-filler.
Vegan Imbiss (Luitpoldstrasse 13; dishes €3-6) Wedged between the facades of Luitpoldstrasse, this tiny snack bar offers meat- and dairy-free noodle-rice-veg combinations with a touch of Asian zing.
Sushi Nagoya ( 242 5143; Hintere Ledergasse 2; mains €6-20; 11.30am-3pm & 5.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat) This gaudy sushi bar in a former Bavarian pub has mean deals, such as a ‘Bento’ – miso soup, three pieces of sushi, a spring roll and chicken teriyaki – for €9.95.
American Diner (Cinecitta Cinema, Gewerbemuseumsplatz 3; burgers €8-12; 11am-1am Sun-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat) For the juiciest burgers in town head for this retro diner in the Cinecitta Cinema.
NUREMBERG SAUSAGES
There’s hot(dog) competition between Regensburg and Nuremberg over whose sausages are best; the latter’s are certainly more