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Bratwurstglöcklein im Handwerkerhof ( 227 625; Handwerkerhof; dishes €5-11) Despite its location in the folksy Handwerkerhof, the sausages here are first-rate. Drei im Weckla (three links in a roll) will cost you loose change.

Bratwursthäusle ( 227 695; Rathausplatz 1; dishes €5-11; closed Sun) Seared over a flaming beech-wood grill, the little links sold at this rustic inn arguably set the standards for Rostbratwürste across the land. You can dine in the timbered restaurant or on the terrace with views of the Hauptmarkt.

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Drinking

Landbierparadies ( 287 8673; Rothenburger Strasse 26; mains €6-9; evenings) A less than inspiring exterior and a spit ’n’ sawdust, all-timber saloon detract little from the incredible wellspring of obscure country ales pulled at this pub. Some ‘brands’ are only available here and in the village where they are brewed.

Treibhaus ( 223 041; Karl-Grillenberger-Strasse 28) Well off the path of most visitors, this bustling cafe is a Nuremberg institution. It serves breakfast till evening and caffeinated comfort to students and weary-legged shoppers.

Meisengeige ( 208 283; Am Laufer Schlagturm 3) This long-established hole-in-the-wall bar draws an intense crowd of film intellectuals thanks to the tiny indie cinema next door.

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Entertainment

The excellent Plärrer (www.plaerrer.de; €2), available at newsstands throughout the city, is the best source of information on events around town. Otherwise the free monthly listings magazine Doppelpunkt (www.doppelpunkt.de), found in bars, restaurants and the tourist office, does an adequate job.

NIGHTCLUBS

Hirsch ( 429 414; Vogelweiherstrasse 66) This converted factory, 2.5km south of the Hauptbahnhof, hosts live alternative music almost daily, including big-name acts such as Suzanne Vega and The Wailers. Take the U1 to Frankenstrasse.

Loop Club ( 686 767; Klingenhofstrasse 52; Thu-Sat) With three dance areas and a languid chill-out zone with lounge music, this place attracts a slightly more mature crowd. Thursdays are 150-Cent night, a collective send-up with cheap mixed drinks flowing to the sound of ’80s hits and karaoke. Take the U2 to Herrnhütte, turn right and it’s a five-minute walk.

Mach1 ( 246 602; Kaiserstrasse 1-9; Thu-Sat) This legendary dance temple has been around for decades but still holds a spell over fashion victims. Line up and be mustered.

Rockfabrik ( 565 056; Klingenhofstrasse 56; Thu-Sat) Safely out of earshot of the centre, 3.5km to the northeast, this citadel of rock heaves with longhairs who flock here for the weekend ‘AC/DC’, ‘Oldies’ and ‘Heroes of Rock’ nights. Take the U2 to Herrnhütte.

CINEMA

Roxy ( 488 40; Julius-Lossmann-Strasse 116) This cinema shows first-run films in the original English version, a rarity in Nuremberg. Take tram 8 to the Südfriedhof stop.

Filmhaus ( 231 5823; Königstrasse 93) This small indie picture house shows foreign-language movies plus reruns of cult German flicks and films for kids.

THEATRE & CLASSICAL MUSIC

Staatstheater (State Theatre; www.staatstheater-nuernberg.de; Richard-Wagner-Platz 2) Nuremberg’s magnificent Staatstheater serves up an impressive mix of dramatic arts. The renovated art nouveau opera house presents opera and ballet, while the Kammerspiele offers a varied program of classical and contemporary plays. Tickets are available at the box office or by calling 231 3808. The Nürnberger Philharmoniker also performs here.

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Getting There & Away

Nuremberg airport ( 937 00), 5km north of the centre, is served by regional and international carriers, including Lufthansa, Air Berlin and Air France.

Trains run at least hourly to/from Frank-furt (€48, two hours) and Munich (€49, one hour). There are direct connections several times daily to Berlin (€89, 4¾ hours) and Vienna (€86, five hours), while a couple of slow trains also go to Prague (€51.40, five hours).

Buses leave for Berlin at 12.10pm (one-way €42, four hours) with BerlinLinienBus,