Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [316]
The star turn, however, and Bamberg’s enduring mystery, is the statue of the Bamberger Reiter, a chivalric king-knight on a steed. Nobody knows for sure who he is, but one leading theory points towards Konrad III, the Hohenstaufen king buried in the cathedral. The Nazis seized on the heroic medieval image as a symbol of Aryan perfection.
Outside, the Prince’s Portal shows Christ in an ornate sculpture of the Last Judgment. On the south side of the Dom, in a separate building off the cloisters, is the Diözesan Museum ( 502 316; Domplatz 5; adult/concession €3/2.50; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun). Top ranking among its ecclesiastical treasures goes to Heinrich II’s Blue Coat of Stars, kept not far from the pontifical knee-socks of Clemens II.
AROUND DOMPLATZ
Northwest of the Dom is the Alte Hofhaltung (old court hall), a former prince-bishops’ palace that contains the Historisches Museum ( 519 0746; Domplatz 7; adult/concession €3/2; 9am-5pm Tue-Sun May-Oct). The mixed bag of exhibits includes a model of the pilgrimage church Vierzehnheiligen and the Bamberger Götzen, ancient stone sculptures found in the region.
Across the square, you’ll spot the stately Neue Residenz ( 519 390; Domplatz 8; adult/concession €4/3; 9am-6pm Apr-Sep, 10am-4pm Oct-Mar), a huge episcopal palace now housing a significant collection of baroque paintings. The 40-odd rooms vie with the artwork for your attention, especially the elaborately decorated Kaisersaal (Imperial Hall), where the ceiling is smothered in a complex allegorical fresco. The baroque Rosengarten (Rose Garden) behind the palace has fabulous views over Bamberg’s red-tiled roofs.
MICHAELSBERG
Above Domplatz, at the top of Michaelsberg, is the Benedictine Kloster St Michael, a former monastery and now an aged people’s home. The monastery church is a must-see, both for its baroque art and the meticulous depictions of nearly 600 medicinal plants and flowers on the vaulted ceiling. The manicured garden terrace boasts a splendid city panorama.
Also up here is the Fränkisches Brauereimuseum (Franconian Brewery Museum; 530 16; Michaelsberg 10f; adult/concession €3/2.50; 1-5pm Wed-Sun Apr-Oct). Exhibits show plaster(ed) dummies of monks, who began brewing their Benediktiner Dunkel beer as early as 1122.
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Tours
Possibly the most tempting tour offered by the tourist office is the self-guided Brewery Trail (adult €22). The price includes entry to the Franconian Brewery Museum (depending on the route taken) plus five beer vouchers valid in five brewpubs, an English information booklet, a route map and a souvenir stein.
A less boozy route can be fashioned using a special PDA (per 4/8hr €8.50/12), which can be hired from the tourist office. Bring ID.
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Sleeping
To book a room (from about €40/60 for singles/doubles) through the room reservations hotline, call 297 6310.
Campingplatz Insel ( 563 20; www.campinginsel.de; Am Campingplatz 1; tents €4-8, adult/car €5/4) This well-equipped place, in a tranquil spot right on the river, is the sole camping option. Take bus 18 to Campingplatz.
Backpackers Bamberg ( 222 1718; www.backpackersbamberg.de; Memmelsdorferstrasse 21; dm €16-19; ) By the time you read this, Bamberg’s only independent hostel will have moved from its delightfully cosy loft to larger premises in Heiliggrabstrasse. New facilities will include bike storage, a fully equipped kitchen and free wi-fi. Check the website for details.
Brauereigasthof Fässla ( 265 16; www.faessla.de; Obere Königstrasse 19-21; s/d €40/60; ) Those with more than a passing interest in the local brews should try this atmospheric guesthouse, where snug but modern rooms are just up the stairs from the pub and covered courtyard.
Hotel Europa ( 309 3020; www.hotel-europa-bamberg.de;