Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [317]
Barockhotel am Dom ( 540 31; www.barockhotel.de; Vorderer Bach 4; s/d €72/98; ) The sugary facade, a sceptre’s swipe from the Dom, gives a hint of the baroque heritage and original details within. Rooms have sweeping views of the Dom or over the roofs of the Altstadt, and breakfast is served in a 14th-century vault.
Hotel Sankt Nepomuk ( 984 20; www.hotel-nepomuk.de; Obere Mühlbrücke 9; s/d €95/145; ) Named aptly after the patron saint of bridges, this classy place is located in an A-framed former mill in the middle of the Regnitz. It has rustic rooms, a superb gourmet restaurant on the premises and bicycles for hire.
Hotel Residenzschloss ( 609 10; www.residenzschloss.com; Untere Sandstrasse 32; s/d €139/174; ) Opposite the concert hall, one of Bamberg’s best hotels occupies a historic former hospital. Its swanky furnishings, from the Roman-style steam bath to the flashy piano bar, have little in common with institutional care.
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Eating
Grüner Markt, the main shopping drag, has a daily produce market and a number of fast-food options.
Wirtshaus zum Schlenkerla ( 560 60; Dominikaner-strasse 6; dishes €5-10) A local legend that’s known nationwide, this dark, rustic 16th-century restaurant with long wooden tables serves tasty Franconian specialities and its own superb Rauchbier, poured straight from the oak barrel.
Spezial-Keller ( 548 87; Sternwartstrasse 8; dishes €5-11) Quite a hike out of town, but the superb Rauchbier served here is your reward, along with great views of the Dom and the Altstadt from the beer garden. Join Bamberg’s beer connoisseurs in November to ring in the Bockbier (malty beer) season.
Klosterbräu ( 522 65; Obere Mühlbrücke 1-3; mains €6-11) This beautiful half-timbered brewery is Bamberg’s oldest. It draws Stammgäste (regulars local drinkers) and tourists alike who wash down filling slabs of meat and dumplings with its excellent range of ales.
Ambräusianum ( 509 0262; Dominikanerstrasse 10; dishes €7-15) This outstanding brewpub does a killer Weisswurst breakfast – parsley-speckled veal sausage served with a big freshly baked pretzel and a Weissbier (€5.50). Sit next to the copper vat and listen to the beer ferment.
Kornblume ( 917 1760; Kapellenstrasse 22; mains €8-10; 5.30pm-midnight Mon, 11.30am-2pm & 5.30pm-midnight Wed-Sun; ) Don’t be deterred by the crass decor at this family-run place 1.5km east of the centre, as the tasty food is lovingly prepared and strict organic and eco-friendly principles impeccably upheld. The menu reads like a vegetarian’s antioxidant bible, though the occasional meat dish also makes an appearance. Take bus 5 to Wunderberg.
Messerschmidt ( 297 800; Lange Strasse 41; mains €15-24) In the house where plane engineer Willy Messerschmidt was born, this stylish gourmet eatery oozes old-world tradition, with dark woods, white linens and formal service. Dine out on the charming alfresco terrace overlooking a pretty park, or in the attached wine tavern with a more relaxed atmosphere.
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Drinking & Entertainment
For chilled-out entertainment the best places to head for are Austrasse and Sandstrasse, where the hip hang out by day and night. See Eating, left, for brewpubs.
Café Müller ( 202 943; Austrasse 23) Attractive coffee house and cocktail bar that spills out onto the cobbles from late winter.
Bassanese ( 509 568; Karolinenstrasse 2) Serves authentic Italian gelato, strudels and handmade chocolates to fans in wicker chairs on the cobblestones near the old town hall.
Other possible options include Pelikan ( 603 410; Untere Sandstrasse 45), a candlelit pub with occasional local bands, and Live Club ( 603 410; Oberer Sandstrasse 7), a premier venue for live music. Down the road, Jazz Club