Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [329]
TOURIST INFORMATION
Tourist office ( 507 4410; www.tourismus.regensburg.de; Altes Rathaus; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 9.30am-4pm Sun)
Return to beginning of chapter
Sights
DOM ST PETER
Regensburg’s soaring landmark, the Dom St Peter ( 597 1660; Domplatz; admission free) ranks among Bavaria’s grandest Gothic cathedrals. Construction dates from the late 13th century, but the distinctive filigree spires weren’t added until the 19th century; the extravagant western facade from this period is festooned with sculptures. Inside are kaleidoscopic stained-glass windows above the choir and in the south transept. Another highlight is a pair of charming sculptures (1280), attached to pillars just west of the altar, which features the Angel Gabriel beaming at the Virgin on the opposite pillar as he delivers the news that she’s with child.
The Domschatzmuseum (Cathedral Treasury; 576 45; adult/concession €2/1; 10am-5pm Tue-Sat, noon-5pm Sun Apr-Nov) brims with monstrances, tapestries and other church treasures.
SCHLOSS THURN UND TAXIS & MUSEUM
In the 15th century, Franz von Taxis (1459–1517) assured his place in history by setting up the first European postal system, which remained a monopoly until the 19th century. In recognition of his services, the family was given a new palace, the former Benedictine monastery St Emmeram, henceforth known as Schloss Thurn und Taxis ( 504 824; www.thurnundtaxis.de; Emmeramsplatz 5; combined ticket adult/concession €11.50/9; tours at 11am, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm Mon-Fri, also 10am & 1pm Sat & Sun Apr-Oct, weekends only Nov-Mar). It was soon one of the most modern palaces in Europe, and featured such luxuries as flushing toilets, central heating and electricity. Tours include a look into the Basilika St Emmeram.
The palace complex also contains the Thurn und Taxis-Museum ( 504 8133; adult/concession €4.50/3.50; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun). The jewellery, porcelain and precious furnishings on display here belonged, for many years, to the wealthiest dynasty in Germany. The fortune, administered by Prince Albert II, is still estimated at well over €1 billion.
DOCUMENT NEUPFARRPLATZ
Regensburg once had a thriving medieval Jewish community centred around Neupfarrplatz. When the city fell on hard economic times in the early 16th century, the townspeople expelled all Jews and burned their quarter to the ground. A multi-media exhibit, the Document Neupfarrplatz ( 507 3442; tours adult/concession €5/2.50; 2.30pm Thu-Sat, additionally Sun & Mon Jul & Aug) explains events on the square from ancient times right up until the formation of the resistance movement in 1942–43. You can visit a Roman legionary fortress, Jewish houses and both Gothic and Romanesque synagogues. Tickets are only available from Tabak Götz at Neupfarrplatz 3.
ALTES RATHAUS & REICHSTAGSMUSEUM
The seat of the Reichstag for almost 150 years, the Altes Rathaus is now home to Regensburg’s three mayors and the Reichstagsmuseum (Imperial Diet Museum; 507 3442; Altes Rathaus; adult/concession €7.50/4; tours in English 3pm Apr-Oct, 2pm Nov-Mar). Tours take in not only the lavishly decorated Reichssaal (Imperial Hall) but also the original torture chambers in the basement. The interrogation room bristles with tools such as the rack, the Spanish Donkey (a tall wooden wedge on which naked men were made to sit) and spiked chairs.
STEINERNE BRÜCKE
An incredible feat of engineering for its day, Regensburg’s Steinerne Brücke (Stone Bridge) was at one time the only fortified crossing of the Danube. Ensconced in its southern tower is the Brückturm-Museum ( 507 5889; Weisse-Lamm-Gasse 1; adult/concession €2/1.50; 10am-5pm Apr-Oct), a small historical exhibit about the bridge.
CHURCHES
South of the Dom, the humble exterior of the graceful Alte Kapelle (Alter Kornmarkt 8) belies the stunning interior with its rich rococo decorations. The core of the church, however, is about 1000 years old, although the Gothic vaulted ceilings were added in the Middle Ages. The church is open only