Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [330]
Near the Schloss is a masterpiece by the Asam brothers, the Basilika St Emmeram (Emmeramsplatz 3; closed Fri & Sun morning). There are two giant ceiling frescoes and, sheltered in its crypt, the remains of Sts Emmeram, Wolfgang and Ramwold, all Regensburg bishops in the early days of Christianity.
The 12th-century main portal of the Schottenkirche St Jakob (Jakobstrasse 3) is considered one of the supreme examples of Romanesque architecture in Germany. Its reliefs and sculptures form an iconography that continues to baffle the experts.
OTHER SIGHTS
The most tangible reminder of the ancient Castra Regina (Regen Fortress), where the name ‘Regensburg’ comes from, is the remaining Roman wall, which follows Unter den Schwibbögen and veers south onto Dr-Martin-Luther-Strasse. Dating from AD 179 the rough-hewn Porta Praetoria arch is a key reminder of the city’s heritage.
The Historisches Museum ( 507 2448; Dachauplatz 2-4; adult/concession €2.20/1.10; 10am-4pm Tue-Sun, additionally 4-8pm Thu) has exhibits ranging from the Stone Age to the 19th century, with an emphasis on the Roman period and the city’s medieval glory days.
Other worthwhile attractions include the house of astronomer and mathematician Johannes Kepler, now the Kepler-Gedächtnishaus (Kepler Memorial House; 507 3442; Keplerstrasse 5; adult/concession €2.20/1.10; 10.30am-4pm Sat & Sun), and the unexpected Schnupftabak Fabrik (Snuff Factory; 507 3442; Gesandtenstrasse 3; adult/concession €5/2.50; tours 2.30pm Fri, 11am & 2.30pm Sat & Sun), a museum in the old Bernard snuff works packed full of old machines and tobacco-related knick-knacks.
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Tours
City walking tours (adult/child €8/5; in English 1.30pm Wed & Sat May-Oct) Groups meet in front of the Altes Rathaus.
Schifffahrt Klinger ( 521 04; www.schifffahrtklinger.de) Offers short cruises (50 minutes) on the Danube (adult/child €7.50/3.20, hourly from 9am to 4pm, April to late October) and to the Walhalla monument (adult/child single €7.50/3.20, return €10.50/4.80; at 10.30am and 2pm, 45 minutes each way plus a one-hour stop at the monument).
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Festivals & Events
Dult Oktoberfest-style party with beer tents, carousel rides, entertainment and vendors on the Dultplatz, in May and late August/early September.
Weihnachtsmarkt Christmas Market, with stalls selling roasted almonds, gingerbread and traditional wooden toys. At Neupfarrplatz and Schloss Thurn und Taxis, during December.
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Sleeping
BUDGET
Brook Lane Hostel ( 690 0966; www.hostel-regensburg.de; Obere Bachgasse 21; dm €15-19, s/d/apt €35/45/140; ) Expanded and thoroughly modernised in 2009, Regensburg’s only backpacker hostel has spanking-new dorms and bathrooms, and its very own food store.
Zum Frölichen Türken ( 536 51; www.hotel-zum-froehlichen-tuerken.de; Fröhliche-Türken-Strasse 11; s €39-58, d €59-82; ) With its comfortable, clean quarters, unstinting breakfast and mild-mannered staff, the Jolly Turk will bring a smile to any budget-minded traveller’s face. The pricier rooms have private bathrooms.
Also recommended:
Azur-Campingplatz ( 270 025; www.azur-camping.de/regensburg; Weinweg 40; per person €5.50-7.50, per tent €6-9) A pretty site about 3km from the Altstadt on the southern bank of the Danube. Take bus 6.
DJH hostel ( 574 02; www.regensburg.jugendherberge.de; Wöhrdstrasse 60; dm under/over 27yr €20.40/24.40) Regensburg’s 186-bed hostel occupies a beautiful old building on a large island about a 10-minute walk north of the Altstadt. Take bus 3 or 8 from Albertstrasse.
MIDRANGE
Petit Hotel D’Orphée ( 596 020; www.hotel-orphee.de; Wahlenstrasse 1; s €35-110, d €70-135) Behind a humble door in the heart of the city lies a world of genuine charm, unexpected extras and real attention to detail. The striped floors, wrought-iron beds, original sinks and common rooms with soft cushions and well-read books give the feel of a lovingly attended home. Another