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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [331]

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somewhat grander branch of the hotel is located above the Café Orphée Click here.

Hotel Goldenes Kreuz ( 558 12; www.hotel-goldeneskreuz.de; Haidplatz 7; s €75-105, d €95-125; ) Surely the best deal in town, the nine fairy-tale rooms here each bear the name of a crowned head and are fit for a Kaiser. Huge mirrors, dark antique and Bauhaus furnishings, four-poster beds, chubby exposed beams and parquet flooring produce a stylish opus in leather, wood, crystal and fabric.

Altstadthotel am Pach ( 298 610; www.ampach.de; Untere Bachgasse 9; s €96-158, d €116-178; ) Those who have shaped Regensburg history, from Marcus Aurelius to Emperor Karl V, are commemorated in the 21 rooms of this sleek new hotel. Rooms vary in size but all are warmly furnished with thick carpets, comfy mattresses and a minifridge with complimentary beer and water.

Hotel Elements ( 941-3819 8600; www.hotel-elements.de; Alter Kornmarkt 3; apt €129-149) Four elements, four rooms, and what rooms they are! This tiny, brand-new theme-hotel breaks new ground with its imaginative design, and is the best-kept secret in Bavaria. ‘Fire’ blazes in plush crimson and is just the thing for honeymooning couples, while nautically themed ‘Water’ is splashed with portholes and a Jacuzzi. ‘Air’ is spacious and light, as opposed to ‘Earth’ where colonial chocolate browns and bamboo reign.


TOP END

Bischofshof am Dom ( 584 60; www.hotel-bischofshof.de; Krauterermarkt 3; s €79-115, d €138-148; ) The sprawling residence of the former bishops is now a romantic upmarket hotel, with Laura Ashley-style rooms set around a beautiful leafy courtyard. The beer garden is a popular spot on summer evenings, and there’s wheelchair access.


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Eating

‘In Regensburg we ate a magnificent lunch, had a divine musical entertainment, an English hostess and a wonderful Moselle wine,’ Mozart wrote to his wife Constance in 1790. Available in Mozart’s day, but better washed down with a local Kneitinger Pils, is a delectable Bratwurstl (grilled sausage) and Händlmaier’s Süsser Hausmachersenf, a distinctive sweet mustard.


RESTAURANTS

Spaghetteria (Am Römling 12; dishes €4.90-8.70) Get carbed up at this former 17th-century chapel where you can splatter six types of pasta with 23 types of sauce, and get out the door for the cost of a cocktail in Munich. The entrance fresco has a pasta-sucking character from Commedia dell’ Arte.

Dicker Mann ( 573 70; Krebsgasse 6; mains €6-15) One of the oldest restaurants in town, this stylish, very traditional restaurant has dependable Bavarian food, swift service and a lively flair thanks to its young and upbeat staff. On a balmy evening, grab a table in the lovely beer garden out back.

Café Orphée ( 529 77; Untere Bachgasse 8; mains €7-18; 9am-1am) This delightful brasserie, decked out in red velvet, dark wood and plenty of mirrors, is straight off a Parisian street. Pâtés, snacks, coffee or a light lunch all stem from a menu of appetising Gallic cuisine.

Rosenpalais ( 599 7579; Minoritenweg 20; bistro mains €11-20, restaurant mains €20-32; closed Sun) If it’s posh-nosh you’re after, try this refined place just off Dachauplatz. Well-heeled clientele head upstairs to the graceful silver-service restaurant, wallet-watching gourmets stay downstairs. Either way the food is superb.

Other recommendations:

L’Osteria ( 599 9181; Watmarkt 1; mains €5.50-9.50) It keeps the pizza-pasta combo coming fast at this low-lit, kitsch-free chain ristorante.

Leerer Beutel ( 589 97; Bertoldstrasse 9; mains €9-17) An imaginative menu and friendly service awaits you in the cavernous interior or out on the car-free cobbles.


QUICK EATS

Wurstkuchl (Thundorfer Strasse 3; 6 sausages €6.90) Justifiably famous for its little sausages grilled over beech wood and served with Kraut (cabbage).

Lagom Lunch (Dr-Martin-Luther-Strasse 9; closed Sat & Sun) Smiley, no-frills lunch spot where the sandwiches, vegie dishes and panini come cheap as chips.

Wurstlkine (Rotehahnengasse 2) If Historische Wurstküche is closed, head for this sausage stand with cult

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