Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [332]
Dampfnudel Uli ( 532 97; Watmarkt 4; dishes under €5; closed Sun & Mon) This quirky little noshery serves a mean Dampfnudel (steamed doughnut) with custard in a photo- and stein-filled Gothic chamber at the base of the Baumburger Tower.
Bombay Express ( 584 0954; Am Ölberg 3; mains €5-8; 11am-7pm Mon-Sun) Has fragrant Indian curries made with choice ingredients for takeaway or eating at stand-up tables.
Viktualienmarkt ( daily) There is a fresh produce market at Neupfarrplatz.
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Drinking
BEER GARDENS
Augustiner ( 584 0455; Neupfarrplatz 15) This popular fairy-lit beer garden and restaurant (meals €8 to €16) is ideally located in the heart of the city. The sprawling garden and cavernous interior is a fine place to leave your beer glass ring and pack away some gorgeous grub.
Kneitinger ( 524 55; Arnulfsplatz 3; 9am-11pm) This quintessential Bavarian brewpub is the place to go for some hearty home cooking (mains €5.80 to €15), delicious house suds and outrageous oompah frolics. It’s been in business since 1530. Tours of its brewery are given Wednesday afternoons at 3pm.
Spitalgarten ( 847 74; St Katharinenplatz 1) A veritable thicket of folding chairs and slatted tables by the Danube, this is one of the best places in town for some alfresco quaffing. It claims to have brewed beer (today’s Spital) here since 1350, so it probably knows what it’s doing by now.
CAFES & BARS
Café Galerie ( 561 408; Kohlenmarkt 6) With an ice-cream bar, sports TV, dance floor and sidewalk tables scattered around a splashing fountain, this multitasking cafe is busy round the clock.
Kaminski ( 599 9033; Hinter der Grieb 6) Whether for afternoon coffee, a champagne breakfast or red wine with mussels, this self-assured cafe with pin-striped decor has something for everyone. Breakfast always has a classical soundtrack.
Paletti ( 515 93; Pustetpassage; 8am-1am Mon-Sat, 3pm-1am Sun) Tucked into a covered passageway off Gesandtenstrasse, this buzzy Italian cafe-bar is a hip hang-out with seen-and-be-seen windows and art-clad walls.
Hemingway’s ( 561 506; Obere Bachgasse 5) Black wood, big mirrors and lots of photos of Papa himself add to the cool atmosphere of this art-deco-style bar.
Neue Film Bühne ( 570 37; Bismarckplatz 9) Theatrical decor and the odd disco ball characterise this funky cafe-bar frequented by an eclectic crowd of students, yuppies and young families. In summer, the terrace overlooking Bismarckplatz is great for lounging.
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Entertainment
Ask for a free copy of Logo, the local listings mag, in cafes and bars around town.
CINEMAS
Film Galerie ( 560 901; www.filmgalerie.de; Bertoldstrasse 9) Part of the Leerer Beutel cultural centre, this cinema concentrates on art-house films, often shown in the original language (including English).
Garbo-Filmtheater ( 575 86; Weissgerbergraben 11) This theatre shows classic Hollywood and modern films in English.
LIVE MUSIC & THEATRE
Alte Mälzerei ( 788 810; www.alte-maelzerei.de; Galgenbergstrasse 20) Regensburg’s top venue for soul, funk, rock, metal and just about any other genre you can imagine, as well as poetry readings and dance events.
Jazzclub Regensburg ( 563 375; www.jazzclub-regensburg.de; Bertoldstrasse 9) This jazz club in the Leerer Beutel cultural centre is a vortex of talent, putting on two to three concerts a week.
Theater Regensburg ( 507 2424; www.theater-regensburg.de; Bismarckplatz) Runs a varied program of opera, ballet, classical concerts and drama.
Theater am Haidplatz (Haidplatz 8) Also has open-air performances in summer.
The cathedral’s famous boys’ choir, the Regensburger Domspatzen, sings at 10am Sunday service in the Dom St Peter.
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Getting There & Away
Regensburg has direct train links to Frankfurt am Main (€63, three hours), Munich (€23.30, 1½ hours) via Landshut (€11.30, 50 minutes), Nuremberg (€17.60, one to two hours) and Passau (from €20.50, one to two hours).
Regensburg is about an hour’s drive southeast of Nuremberg and