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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [346]

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here. A recent facelift has restored the district’s cobbled lanes and gabled houses, which harbour idiosyncratic galleries, workshops, bookstores, wine taverns and cafes. The Bohnenviertel’s villagey feel is a refreshing tonic to the big-city feel of central Stuttgart.

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When temperatures soar, Stuttgarters head to Max-Eyth-See, about 7km northeast of the Hauptbahnhof on the U14 line, for pedalo fun on the lake and picnicking in the park beside the Neckar River. Murky water means swimming is out, but there’s a worthwhile bike path, part of the Neckartal-Radweg. The terraced-style vineyards rising above the river are scattered with Wengerter-Häuschen (tool sheds); some are more than 200 years old and protected landmarks.


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TOURS

Boat

From early May to late October, Neckar-Käpt’n ( 5499 7060; www.neckar-kaeptn.de) runs boat excursions on the Neckar River (from €8), departing from its dock at Wilhelma in Bad Cannstatt on the U14.


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Walking & Bus

Sightseeing and walking tours feature the 1½-hour Stadt-Spaziergang (City Walk; €8; 11am Apr-Oct), beginning at the tourist office, and the 2½-hour Stadt-Rundfahrt (City Coach Tour; adult/concession €18/14.50; 1.30pm daily Apr-Oct) starting at Hotel am Schlossgarten (opposite). Both are in English and German


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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

The following list is a taster of Stuttgart’s liveliest events.

Sommerfest Riverside parties, open-air gigs and alfresco feasting are what this four-day August shindig is all about.

Weindorf A 10-day event where wine-makers sell the year’s vintages from hundreds of booths on Schlossplatz and the Oberer Schlossgarten. Begins on the last weekend in August.

Cannstatter Volksfest Stuttgart’s answer to Oktoberfest, this beer-guzzling bash, held over three consecutive weekends from late September to mid-October, lifts spirits with oompah music, fairground rides and fireworks.

Weihnachtsmarkt One of Germany’s biggest Christmas markets brings festive twinkle to Marktplatz, Schillerplatz and Schlossplatz from late November to 23 December.


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SLEEPING

Stuttgart is gradually upping the ante in slumber land but, like it or not, nondescript chains still reign supreme. Expect weekend discounts of 10% to 20% at hotels targeting business travellers. If you’re seeking individual flair and a family welcome, stop by the tourist office for a list of private guesthouses and apartments.


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Budget

Campingplatz Stuttgart ( 556 696; www.campingplatz-stuttgart.de; Mercedesstrasse 40, Bad Cannstatt; per person/tent/car €6.30/4.50/2.50; year-round) This leafy site, 1km southeast of the Bad Cannstatt S-Bahn station, has a bistro, laundry and playground.

DJH hostel ( 664 7470; www.jugendherberge-stuttgart.de; Haussmannstrasse 27; dm 1st/subsequent night €22.90/19.60; 24hr; ) A recent makeover has glammed up this hostel, offering squeaky-clean dorms with private bathrooms. A lounge and a terrace with fab city views add to the sociable vibe. It’s 800m southeast of the Hauptbahnhof

Museumstube ( 296 810; www.museumstube.de; Hospitalstrasse 9; d €67, s/d without bathroom €32/47) Within staggering distance of pumping Theodor-Heuss-Strasse, this humble abode is kept shipshape by kindly Maria and Drago. Rooms are old fashioned but super-clean. Head downstairs to sample their famous goulash. Prices don’t include breakfast.

Hostel Alex 30 ( 838 8950; www.alex30-hostel.de; Alexanderstrasse 30; dm/s/d €23/35/56, breakfast €7; ; Olgaeck) Backpackers find a relaxed base in these mellow digs with a bar, sundeck and communal kitchen. The 32 citrus-bright rooms are light and contemporary.


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Midrange

Abalon Hotel ( 217 10; www.abalon.de; Zimmermannstrasse 7-9; s €79-89, d €99-112; ) Affable staff, a top location and wallet-friendly rates make Abalon a great pick. The bright parquet-floored rooms are large and spotless.

City Hotel ( 210 810; www.cityhotel-stuttgart.de; Uhlandstrasse 18; s

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