Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [347]
Hotel Azenberg ( 225 5040; www.hotelazenberg.de, in German; Seestrasse 114-116; s €85-145, d €105-165; ) This family-run retreat has plush, individually designed quarters with themes swinging from English country manor to Picasso. Work off breakfast doing laps in the pool. The hotel is a brisk uphill stroll or a short ride on bus 43 from Stadtmitte to Hölderlinstrasse.
Hotel Unger ( 209 90; www.hotel-unger.de, in German; Kronenstrasse 17; s €80-125, d €112-175; ) Right near the Hauptbahnhof, this hotel’s corporate feel is offset by its friendliness and comfort. Guests rave about the generous breakfast with smoked fish, fresh fruit and pastries. Rates drop around 40% at weekends.
Ochsen Hotel ( 407 0500; www.ochsen-online.de; Ulmer Strasse 323; s €86-99, d €114-128; ; Inselstrasse) It’s well worth going the extra mile to this charismatic 18th-century hotel. Some of the spacious, warm-hued rooms have whirlpool tubs for a post-sightseeing bubble. The wood-panelled restaurant serves appetising local fare.
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Top End
Hotel am Schlossgarten ( 202 60; www.hotelschlossgarten.com; Schillerstrasse 23; s €120-141, d €164-184; ) Sidling up to the Schloss, this hotel has swish rooms with above-par perks like free newspapers and chocolate; those facing the park are the quietest. Foodies jostle for a table in the Michelin-starred Zirbelstube restaurant (mains €28 to €52).
Der Zauberlehrling ( 237 7770; www.zauberlehrling.de; Rosenstrasse 38; s €115-155, d €145-245, ste €270-420; ) The self-consciously cool sorcerer’s apprentice reveals design-driven rooms, from Titanic with its waterbed to the high-tech wizardry of the Media Suite. Yet it’s hard to conjure up a smile at reception and the place lacks a little soul. Nice, but not quite magic.
Steigenberger Graf Zeppelin ( 204 80; www.stuttgart.steigenberger.de; Arnulf-Klett-Platz 7; s/d from €195/220; ) While its concrete facade won’t bowl you over, inside is a different story. This five-star pad facing the Hauptbahnhof is luxury all the way with its snazzy rooms, Zen-style spa and Michelin-starred restaurant, Olivo.
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EATING
Stuttgart has become quite experimental in the kitchen, sprouting a crop of avant-garde restaurants where inspired chefs put a creative, seasonal spin on German cuisine. The centre serves up a mix of flavours, from Swabian soul food like Spätzle (egg-based noodles) to tangy Currywurst (curried sausage). Explore the Bohnenviertel’s narrow lanes for intimate bistros and arty cafes with a youthful buzz.
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A VINE ROMANCE
To taste the fruity Trollingers and citrusy rieslings produced in the region, factor in a stroll through the vineyards surrounding Stuttgart. The Stuttgarter Weinwanderweg (www.stuttgarter-weinwanderweg.de, in German) comprises several walking trails that thread through winegrowing villages. One begins at Pragsattel station (on the U5 or U6 line) and meanders northeast to Max-Eyth-See (opposite), affording fine views from Burgholzhofturm. Visit the website for alternative routes, maps and distances.
From October to March, look out for a broom above the door of Besenwirtschaften (Besa for short). Run by winegrowers, these rustic bolt-holes are atmospheric places to chat with locals while sampling the new vintage and Swabian home cooking. Some operate every year, but most don’t. Check the Besen Kalender website (www.besenkalender.de, in German) during vintage times. Stuttgart-area Besenwirtschaften that open annually include the central City-Besen ( 470 4248; Wilhelmsplatz 1; 5pm-midnight Mon-Fri, noon-midnight Sat), an atmospheric vaulted cellar serving home-grown wines.
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Budget
Imbiss zum Brunnenwirt ( 245 021; Leonhardsplatz 25; sausages €2.40-3.20; 11am-2am Mon-Thu, 11am-3am Fri & Sat, 4pm-2am