Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [348]
Bitter Sweet ( 222 0888; Wagnerstrasse 38a; snacks €3-4; 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) Prettier than a little girl’s bedroom, this pastel-washed, flower-strewn cafe is shoehorned into a courtyard in Bohnenviertel. Marcel keeps the scones, tarts, aromatic speciality teas and good vibes coming. It doubles as a shop selling homemade jams, chocolate and old-fashioned hard-boiled sweets.
Forum Theater Café ( 440 074 992; Gymnasiumstrasse 21; snacks €4-7; 3pm-11.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm Sat; ) This nature-inspired, kid-friendly cafe in the Forum Theater has a relaxed ambience and rotating art exhibitions. Revive over a yogi tea or organic snacks from wholesome soups to moist blueberry cake.
Deli ( 236 0200; Geissstrasse 7; mains €6-13; 10am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) Overlooking the Hans-im-Glück fountain, this groovy cafe-bar plays mellow lounge music and rustles up dishes from pasta to spicy shrimp curry.
Self-caterers make for the food market (Markt-platz; 7.30am-1pm Tue, Thu & Sat) and the Markthalle (market hall; Dorotheenstrasse 4; 7am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7am-4pm Sat), which sells picnic fixings and has Italian and Swabian restaurants.
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Midrange
Weinhaus Stetter ( 240 163; Rosenstrasse 32; mains €7-13.50; 3-11pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm & 5.30-11pm Sat) No-nonsense Swabian cooking, such as flavoursome Linsen und Saiten (lentils with sausage), and wines are the mainstay of this Bohnenviertel tavern. The attached wine shop sells 650 different vintages.
Calwer-Eck-Bräu ( 2224 9440; Calwer Strasse 31; mains €9-18.50; 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) Dark polished wood and leather banquettes create a cosy feel in this 1st-floor brewpub. Loosen a belt notch for Swabian-Bavarian dishes like Maultaschensuppe (ravioli soup) and Weisswurst (white veal-pork sausage), which pair nicely with cloudy pilsners.
Alte Kanzlei ( 294 457; Schillerplatz 5a; mains €9.50-17.50; 10am-midnight Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat) Empty tables are gold-dust rare at this convivial, high-ceilinged restaurant on Schillerplatz. Feast on Swabian favourites like Spannpferkel (roast suckling pig) and Flädlesuppe (pancake soup), washed down with regional tipples.
Amadeus ( 292 678; Charlottenplatz 17; mains €10-17.50, salads €4.50-8.80; noon-midnight Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun) Once an 18th-century orphanage dishing up gruel, this chic, bustling restaurant now serves glorious Swabian food such as Maultaschen and riesling-laced Kutteln (tripe). The terrace is a big draw in summer.
Basta ( 240 228; Wagnerstrasse 39; mains €10-18; 4pm-1am Mon-Fri, 1pm-2am Sat) The hum of chatter and herby smells fill this snug Bohnenviertel bistro. Each flavour shines through in dishes like wild-garlic Maultaschen and glass noodles with sea bream. Wine lovers have plenty of choice.
Weinstube Schellenturm ( 236 4888; Weberstrasse 72; mains €10-19; 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Since casting off its Schellen (shackles) as a jail, this turreted 16th-century tower has been reincarnated as a wine tavern. Ascend the spiral staircase to feast on regional treats such as hazelnut Spätzle and herb-crusted lamb under wood beams.
Weber ( 253 6338; Calwer Strasse 52; mains €12-23; 11am-midnight Mon-Thu, 11am-2am Fri & Sat, 10am-midnight Sun) Jazzy beats play in this hip bistro, sporting a sleek interior with teak tables, olive-black colours and woven screens. Presented in a vinyl cover, the menu gives local flavours a Mediterranean twist – think ostrich filet with lemon Schupfnudeln (potato noodles). Brunch favourites include luxus Eier (luxury eggs) with truffle oil and parmesan.
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Top End
Olivo ( 204 8277; Arnulf-Klett-Platz 7; mains €35-44, 3-course lunch/dinner €48/109; Tue-Sat) Chef Marc Rennhack’s Franco-German cuisine is fresh and innovative. The culinary heavyweight packs a Michelin-starred punch with seasonal signature