Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [356]
Dubliner ( 873 0751; www.dublinerheidelberg.com; Hauptstrasse 93; s/d/ste €69/85/100; ) Guinness and Irish ditties induce sound slumber at this central fave. Soft lighting, earthy colours and wood floors give the spick-and-span rooms a contemporary touch. Breakfast costs an extra €6.50. There’s free wi-fi at the bar.
Hotel Goldener Hecht ( 166 025; www.hotel-goldener-hecht.de; Steingasse 2; s €62-77, d €80-100) The area is firmly touristy territory, but it’s hard to beat this centuries-old hotel for Neckar views. Goethe was once turned away for lack of space and the well-kept rooms are still sought-after today, so book ahead.
Hotel zum Pfalzgrafen ( 204 89; www.hotel-zum-pfalzgrafen.de; Kettengasse 21; s €69-77, d €87-103; ) Chalk-white walls and polished pine floors keep the rooms bright and breezy at this family-run place.
Denner Hotel ( 604 510; www.denner-hotel.de; Bergheimer Strasse 8; s €90-110, d €110-130, €20 less Fri & Sat; ) The chipper team make guests right at home at this boutique hotel. The 19 rooms have creatively painted walls and hardwood floors; some feature neoclassical balconies overlooking Bismarckplatz.
Hotel Goldener Falke ( 143 30; www.goldener-falke-heidelberg.de; Am Marktplatz; s €70-85, d €135-155; ) Expect a heartfelt welcome at this spruced-up hotel on Marktplatz. Sleek rooms come with flat-screen TVs, gleaming bathrooms and features like slanted wood beams. Light sleepers should forego views for a quieter back room.
Hotel zum Ritter St Georg ( 1350; www.ritter-heidelberg.de; Hauptstrasse 178; s €72-93, d €118-144; ) Set in a late-Renaissance pile near the Marktplatz, the rooms here are comfy if somewhat an anticlimax given the opulent facade and lobby.
Kulturbrauerei Hotel ( 502 980; www.heidelberger-kulturbrauerei.de, in German; Leyergasse 6; s €111-140, d €121-160; ) Great beer and grub are a boon at this microbrewery hotel. The stylish rooms are decked out in soft creams with shiny parquet floors and large windows.
TOP END
Hotel zum Sepp’l ( 230 85; www.zum-seppl.de, in German; Hauptstrasse 213; s/d €127/165) Steps lead up from this age-old student pub to rooms that ooze historic charm with antique dark-wood furnishings and creaky floors. Plump beds, sunny paint-jobs and marble bathrooms add modern comfort. Rates dip in low season.
Hip Hotel ( 208 79; www.hip-hotel.de; Hauptstrasse 115; s €135-180, d €150-210; ) Snooze in a Fijian beach shack complete with sandy bay, a woodsy Canadian hunter’s cottage, or a topsy-turvy Down Under room where everything (paintings, doors, bed) is upside down. In an age where cities spawn a theme hotel a minute, this place is truly hip. The globetrotting Kischka family’s eye for detail shines through, whether you plump for a Swiss ski hut or four-poster romance in Prague.
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Eating & Drinking
The Altstadt, especially Steingasse, is chock-full of restaurants, fast-food joints and beer gardens, serving everything from pan-fresh falafel to well-spiced curries. For a more local vibe, head to the leafy district of Neuenheim or the Hauptbahnhof area. Untere Strasse is great for bar hopping.
Schiller’s Café ( 0175-402 8456; Heiliggeiststrasse 5; snacks €2-4; 10am-8pm; ) Whisper quietly about this half-timbered cafe, housed in one of Heidelberg’s oldest buildings, where the film Schiller, produced by ARD, was filmed in 2005. Hot chocolates like cannabis-cinnamon, homemade cakes, quiches, and wines are mostly organic and/or gluten-free.
Raja Rani ( 653 0893; Friedrichstrasse 15; mains €2.50-5) Not bad for a cheap, fast korma or masala. The mango lassis are superb.
Café Burkardt ( 166 620; Untere Strasse 27; cake & snacks €2.50-8) Full of doily-draped nooks and dark-wood crannies, this nostalgic cafe tempts with Heidelberg’s scrummiest tarts and cheesecakes. Opt for a table in the courtyard, where Weimar Republic president Friedrich Ebert was born.
Falafel ( 0151-2414 8544; Merianstrasse 3; snacks €3-6; ) The chef is quick with his frying pan and witticisms at this laid-back joint opposite the Jesuitenkirche. Go for the wonderfully