Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [357]
Green ( 433 2545; Marktplatz; light meals €6-8; 10am-1am Mon-Thu, 10am-3am Fri & Sat; ) Heidelberg locals hang out over brunch and organic smoothies at this cafe, an attention grabber with its lime-green bar, brushed gold walls and aquarium.
Marktstübchen ( 653 0893; Marktplatz, Neuenheim; light meals €6-9) Tots whiz past on tricycles as their parents toast summer with cold beers and perfectly crisp Flammkuchen (Alsatian pizzas) on the square at this Alsatian-style bistro in Neuenheim.
Café Gekco ( 604 510; Bergheimer Strasse 8; mains €7.40-11.50; 7am or 8am-1am, to 3am Fri & Sat) Far from the madding crowd, this groovy cafe has a palmlike canopy of halogen lights. It’s great for brunch, lunch (€6 to €7), tapas and cocktails.
KulturBrauerei ( 502 980; Leyergasse 6; mains €9.90-19.80) With its chandeliers and time-faded frescoes, this high-ceilinged microbrewery is an atmospheric spot for tucking heartily into Schäufele (pork shoulder) with sauerkraut, or quaffing home-brews in the beer garden.
Sultana ( 208 79; Hauptstrasse 115; mains €14-28; dinner Wed-Mon) Keyhole arches, tadelakt-like walls and bursts of hot colour whisk you to Marrakech at this restaurant in the Hip Hotel. The menu is a Moroccan diffa (feast) of tagine, couscous and meltingly tender mechoui lamb.
Destille ( 228 08; Untere Strasse 16; noon-2am, to 3am Fri & Sat) Just like the tree behind the bar, this mellow pub grows on you, especially after a Tabasco schnapps Warmer Erpel (warm duck) or three.
MaxBar ( 244 19; Marktplatz 5; 8am-1am, to 2am Fri & Sat) Ah oui, this Marktplatz cafe wouldn’t be out of place in Paris with its banquettes, Napoleon bust above the bar, cold pastis and authentically arrogant staff.
Zum Sepp’l ( 230 85; Hauptstrasse 213; noon-midnight) Heidelberg’s most historic student pub, Sepp’l is worth a beer alone to gawp at the frat photos smothering the dark wooden walls and the names carved into the tables. It exudes the ambience of yesteryear, though these days students are outnumbered by tourists.
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Entertainment
Heidelberg’s student population fuels the party at the weekend. The city’s effervescent cultural scene includes regular concerts, dance and theatre performances. Tickets and event listings are available at Heidelberg Ticket ( 582 0000; Theaterstrasse 4; 11am-7pm Mon-Fri, noon-6.30pm Sat).
Cave54 ( 27 840; www.cave54.de, in German; Krämergasse 2; admission from €5) Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald have played the Cave, Germany’s oldest student jazz club which opened in 1954. It hosts jam sessions at 8.30pm every Sunday. The DJ pumps out an eclectic mix of rock, blues and oldies until 3am on other nights of the week.
Deep ( 651 7760; Hauptstrasse 1; 11pm-5pm Fri & Sat) Self-consciously trendy, this lounge-club is on a mission to sex up this city with its virginal white decor, eye-candy crowd and uber-picky doormen. House and techno dominate the decks.
Gloria und Gloriette ( 253 19; www.cinevent.de, in German; Hauptstrasse 146) A cinema that screens undubbed films three times a week.
Nachtschicht ( 438 550; www.nachtschicht.com, in German; Alte Eppelheimer Strasse 5; admission usually €4.50; 10pm-5am Thu-Sat) Set in a cavernous old tobacco factory, this is one of Heidelberg’s most popular clubs, attracting lots of students. The soundtrack skips from hip hop to house depending on the night.
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Shopping
If the Bavarian wench aprons and I-love-Heidelberg T-shirts sold around Marktplatz aren’t to your taste, amble down the mile-long, traffic-free Hauptstrasse for high-street brands, or find one-off galleries and speciality shops in the Altstadt’s backstreets.
Heidelberger Zuckerladen ( 243 65; Plöck 52; noon-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat) Kiddies be warned: the dentures and dentist’s chair in the window of this cult sweet shop reveal what will happen to your gnashers if you overindulge on the Zuckerladen’s bonbons, liquorice laces and fizzy sherbet. Marion Brecht is the eccentric candy man who adds magic to the pick ’n’ mix with