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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [407]

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and with an open attitude suggestive of warmer climes, the island’s allure is undeniable. Never more so than when gazing across to the Alps at dusk from the lakefront promenade or meandering through the picture-book Altstadt.


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Orientation

The Insel (island), home to the town centre and harbour, is connected to the mainland by the Seebrücke, a road bridge at its northeastern tip, and by the Eisenbahndamm, a rail bridge open to cyclists and pedestrians. The Hauptbahnhof lies to the east of the island, a block south of the pedestrianised, shop-lined Maximilianstrasse.


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Information

ATMs There are several along Maxilimianstrasse.

Lindauer Telecenter (Bahnhofplatz 8; per hr €2; 10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-6pm Sat & Sun) Internet access; 100m to the left as you exit the Hauptbahnhof.

Post office (cnr Maximilianstrasse & Bahnhofplatz)

Tourist office ( 260 030; www.lindau.de; Alfred-Nobel-Platz 1; 9am-1pm & 2-6pm Mon-Fri, 2-6pm Sat early Apr–mid-Oct, plus 10am-2pm Sun late Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Oct–early Apr) Can make hotel bookings.


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Sights

In summer the harbourside Seepromenade has Mediterranean flair, with its palms, bobbing boats and well-heeled tourists sunning themselves in pavement cafes.

Out at the harbour gates, looking across to the Alps, is Lindau’s signature 33m-high Neuer Leuchtturm (New Lighthouse) and, just in case you forget which state you’re in, a statue of the Bavarian lion. The square tile-roofed, 13th-century Mangturm (Old Lighthouse) guards the northern edge of the sheltered port.

Lions and voluptuous dames dance across the trompe l’oeil facade of the flamboyantly baroque Haus zum Cavazzen. Inside, the Stadtmuseum ( 944 073; Marktplatz 6; adult/concession €3/1.50; 11am-5pm Tue-Fri & Sun, 2-5pm Sat) showcases a fine collection of furniture, weapons and paintings.

Lindau’s biggest stunner is the 15th-century, step-gabled Altes Rathaus (Bismarckplatz), a frescoed frenzy of cherubs, merry minstrels and galleons. Next door is the candy-pink, baroque Neues Rathaus where a glockenspiel plays at 11.45am daily.

Stepping north is Peterskirche (Schrannenplatz; daily), a millennium-old church that’s now a war memorial, hiding exquisite time-faded frescoes of the Passion of Christ by Hans Holbein the Elder. The cool, dimly lit interior is a quiet spot for contemplation. Next door is the turreted, 14th-century Diebsturm (Brigand’s Tower), once a tiny jail.


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Sleeping

Lindau virtually goes into hibernation from November to February, when many hotels close. Nip into the tourist office for a list of good-value holiday apartments.

DJH hostel ( 967 10; www.lindau.jugendherberge.de; Herbergsweg 11; dm €22.40, low season €18.90; closed Dec-early Feb; ) Housed partly in a 19th-century building and surrounded by gardens, this is an appealing hostel with a bistro and bike rental. It’s served by bus line 1 or 2 from the Hauptbahnhof.

Hotel Anker ( 260 9844; www.anker-lindau.de; Bindergasse 10; s/d from €48/68) Shiny parquet floors, citrus colours and artwork have spruced up the bargain rooms at this peach-coloured guesthouse. Rates include a hearty breakfast.

Hotel Garni-Brugger ( 934 10; www.hotel-garni-brugger.de; Bei der Heidenmauer 11; s €49-62, d €85-98; closed Dec) Our readers rave about this 18th-century hotel, with bright rooms decked out in floral fabrics and pine. The family bends over backwards to please. Guests can unwind in the sauna (€10) in winter.

Hotel Medusa ( 932 20; www.medusa-hotel.com; Schafgasse 10; s €35-65, d €89-120) Not in the slightest bit scary, this Medusa pleases with lovingly renovated, high-ceilinged rooms with flat-screen TVs, and a downstairs Mexican restaurant.

Alte Post ( 934 60; www.alte-post-lindau.de, in German; Fischergasse 3; s €60-70, d €110-140; closed late Dec-late Mar) Sitting pretty on cobbled Fischergasse, this 300-year-old coaching inn was once a stop on the Frankfurt–Milan mail run. Well-kept, light and spacious, the rooms

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