Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [489]
Hotel Windsor ( 914 680; www.sir-astor.de; Grafenberger Allee 36; s €80-200, d €100-210; ) With the same owner as the Sir & Lady Astor, the Windsor commits itself to the British country tradition. Behind the sandstone facade await 18 rooms where you can unwind beneath stucco-ornamented ceilings surrounded by antiques and plenty of plaid.
Radisson Blu Media Harbour Hotel ( 311 1910; www.mediaharbour.duesseldorf.radissonsas.com; Hammerstrasse 23; r weekday/weekend from €180/110; ) This hipster haven in the Medienhafen has 135 rooms flaunting the cutting-edge cool of Italian designer Matteo Thun. Even the ‘standard’ rooms are anything but, given the walk-in showers, full-length windows and other Zeitgeist-capturing features.
Hotel Orangerie ( 866 800; www.hotel-orangerie-mcs.de; Bäckergasse 1; s €110-165, d €130-210; ) Ensconced in a neoclassical mansion in a quiet corner of the Altstadt, this place puts you within staggering distance of pubs, the river and museums, yet offers a quiet and stylish refuge to retire to. Some of the 27 rooms skimp somewhat on size but all are as bright, modern and uncluttered as the lobby and breakfast room.
Stage 47 ( 388 030; www.stage47.de; Graf-Adolf-Strasse 47; s/d from €160/180; ) Behind the drab exterior, movie glamour meets design chic at this urban boutique hotel. Rooms are named for famous people, some of whom have actually stayed in environs dominated by black, white and grey tones. Nice touches: an iHome and a Nespresso coffeemaker.
Return to beginning of chapter
Eating
Curry ( 303 2857; Hammer Strasse 2; meals under €6; 11.30am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat) In this vibrant little kitchen, sausage is king. Get them big, spicy, hot and paired with your choice of gourmet sauce and possibly a mountain of fresh French fries. Avoid the lunchtime rush from the adjacent Media Harbour.
Zicke ( 324 056; Bäckerstrasse 5a; dishes €5-10; 9am-1am) Arty boho types jam this staple in a quiet corner tucked away from the Altstadt bustle. Linger over breakfast (served until 3pm, on weekends till 4pm) or come for salad, quiche and other light meals.
Brauerei im Füchschen ( 137 470; www.fuechschen.de; Ratinger Strasse 28; snacks €3, mains €5-14; 9am-1am) Boisterous, packed and drenched with local colour – the ‘Little Fox’ in the Altstadt is all you expect a Rhenish beer hall to be. The kitchen makes a mean Schweinshaxe (roast pork leg).
Zum Schiffchen ( 132 421; www.brauerei-zum-schiffchen.de; Hafenstrasse 5; mains €7-19; 11.30am-midnight) History pours from every nook and cranny in this almost ridiculously cosy Altstadt restaurant specialising in gut-busting German and Rhenish meals. Were portions as huge when Napoleon dropped by a couple of centuries ago? Reservations recommended.
Naniwa Noodles & Soups ( 161 799; www.naniwa.de; Oststrasse 55; mains €8-11; noon-10.30pm Wed-Mon) The space is minimalist, the food is not. Soup’s the thing and nearly every variety we tried – flavoured from mild to wild – had perfect pitch. Tables are usually packed with Japanese expats and plugged-in locals, but the wait’s worth it. Or just make a reservation.
* * *
ALTSTADT SNACK FAVES
The Altstadt is chock-full of Imbisse (snack bars), mostly of the pizza-by-the-slice and doner-kebab variety, which are fine but nothing to rave about. We’ve ferreted out a few of the places where in-the-know locals feed their cravings. Those with a sweet tooth can’t escape the magnetism of Pia Eis (Kasernenstrasse 1), the best ice-cream parlour around, bar none, with an incredible selection, quick service and modest prices. Another great sugar fix is the Waffelladen (Bolkerstrasse 8), an unimaginably tiny waffle kitchen in business for more than 40