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Bäckerei Hinkel (several branches, incl Hohe Strasse 31) is another institution that has people queuing patiently for its excellent breads and cakes. A great way to prepare the stomach for an extended pub crawl is by filling up on superb falafel sandwiches at Libanon Express (Berger Strasse 21). Trendy types, meanwhile, are drawn to [Q]üche (Kurze Strasse 3) for its fresh and healthful soups, salads and sandwiches.

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Robert’s Bistro ( 304 821; Wupperstrasse 2; mains €10-22; 11.30am-midnight Tue-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat) Tables are squished together as tightly as lovers at this très French restaurant in the Media Harbour. Bring both an appetite for hearty Gallic fare (the fish soup is highly recommended) and some patience – it doesn’t take reservations and a queue is guaranteed.

Sila Thai ( 860 4427; Bahnstrasse 76; mains €17.50-24; noon-3pm & 6pm-1am) Even simple curries become culinary poetry at this Thai gourmet temple with its fairy-tale setting of carved wood, rich fabrics and imported sculpture. Like a trip to Thailand without the passport. Reservations advised.

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Drinking

At night, especially in good weather, the atmosphere in the Altstadt is electric and often raucous. The beverage of choice is Altbier, a dark and semi-sweet beer typical of Düsseldorf.

Zum Uerige ( 866 990; Berger Strasse 1; 10am-midnight) This cavernous beer hall is the best place to soak it all up. The suds flow so quickly from giant copper vats that the waiters – called Köbes – simply carry huge trays of brew and plonk down a glass whenever they spy an empty.

Anaconda Lounge ( 869 3939; Andreasstrasse 11; 8pm-2am Wed & Thu, to 5am Fri & Sat) The living room of hormone-happy hipsters, this designer cave is great for chilling or launching a bar hop. Strong drinks, kick-ass music and complexion-friendly decor further loosen inhibitions. Insiders fuel up for the long night ahead with cheap pizza from Harlequino next door (ok to bring inside bar).

Melody Bar ( 329 057; Kurze Strasse 12; Tue-Sun) After 10pm you may have to shoehorn your way into this jewel of a cocktail bar that’s an island of sophistication amid the boisterous Altstadt thirst parlours. The drinks are excellent, the owner couple gracious and the crowd mixed.

Salon des Amateurs ( 899 6243; Grabbeplatz 4; noon-1am Tue-Sun) Tucked into the Kunsthalle, this tunnel-shaped cafe-lounge pulls off an artsy vibe without a single canvas. Museum-goers arrive in the afternoon for tea and chat, while hipsters keep the bar and little dance floor hopping after dark.

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Entertainment

Check the listings magazines Prinz and Überblick or the free Coolibri for current goings-on in ‘D-Town’. Gays and lesbians should look for Rik Magazin. All are in German only.

NIGHTCLUBS & LIVE MUSIC

Stone im Ratinger Hof ( 210 7828; Ratinger Strasse 10; cover €5; Wed, Fri & Sat) After a stint as a techno temple in the ’90s, the venerable Ratinger Hof has returned to its rock roots and is now the ‘it’ place for lovers of indie and alt-sounds. Depending on the night, tousled hipsters, skinny-jean emos and sneaker-wearing students thrash it out to everything from noise pop to neo-garage to indietronics.

Pretty Vacant (Mertensgasse 8; from 8pm) It may be named for a Sex Pistols song, but this Altstadt haunt ain’t no punk club. It’s a shape-shifter really, whose cellar walls vibrate to different sounds nightly – glam rock to Britpop, electronica to R&B. Live bands, too.

Sub ( 865 890; Bolker Strasse 14; from 8pm Wed, Fri & Sat) Getting past the door woman can be tough, but if you succeed you’ll have a fine time inside this hip basement haunt designed to look like a subway station. Tip: dress nicely, smile and don’t arrive drunk.

3001 ( 6882 4960; Franziusstrasse 7; 8pm-3am Thu, 11pm-5am Sat, also some Fri) A clubber’s nirvana, this hot ’n’ heavy club in Medienhafen has a giant dance floor where DJs whip shiny, happy and barely legal hotties into a frenzy