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Meininger City Hostel & Hotel (Map; 355 332 014; www.meininger-hostels.com; Engelbertstrasse 33-35; dm €17-24, s/d/tr from €43/68/84, breakfast €3.50; ) In a former hotel, this charming hostel in the cool Zülpicher Viertel is loaded with retro appeal coupled with modern rooms featuring lockers, reading lamps, a small TV and private bathrooms. Freebies include linen, towels and pasta that you can whip up in the small basement kitchen. The bar is a good spot for making friends.

Also recommended:

DJH hostel (off Map; 814 711; www.koeln-deutz.jugendherberge.de; Siegesstrasse 5; dm €25.30, s/d €43/63, incl linen & breakfast; Deutzer Freiheit; ) Huge, state-of-the-art hostel.

Pension Jansen (Map; 251 875; www.pensionjansen.de; Richard-Wagner-Strasse 18; s €31-45, d €62-65) Small B&B close to restaurants and nightlife; bathrooms are shared.

MIDRANGE

Hotel Chelsea (Map; 207 150; www.hotel-chelsea.de; Jülicher Strasse 1; s €61-122, d €90-235; ) Those fancying an artsy vibe will be well sheltered in this self-proclaimed ‘hotel different’. Originals created by international artists in exchange for lodging grace the public areas and 38 rooms and suites. The eye-catching deconstructivist rooftop extension houses a spectacular penthouse.

Hotel Cristall (Map; 163 00; www.hotelcristall.de; Ursulaplatz 9-11; s €72-184, d €90-235; ) This stylish boutique hotel makes excellent use of colour, customised furniture and light accents and manages to appeal both to the suit brigade and city-breakers. Alas, rooms won’t fit a tonne of luggage and light sleepers should get one facing away from the busy street.

Hotel Allegro (Map; 240 8260; www.hotel-allegro.com; Thurnmarkt 1-7; s €75-190, d €95-250; ) Completely nonsmoking, this pleasant pit stop just south of the Altstadt has rooms that sport either a frilly Bavarian or sleek contemporary look. Some have river views, but those at the back are quieter.

Hotel Santo (off Map; 913 9770; www.hotelsanto.de; Dagobertstrasse 22-26; s €95-140, d €120-160; Ebertplatz; ) Despite the drab location near the Hauptbahnhof, this 69-room boutique hotel is an island of sassy sophistication. The design flaunts an edgy, urban feel tempered by playful light effects, soothing colours and natural materials. Bonus: the gourmet breakfast.

Hopper Hotel Et Cetera (Map; 924 400; www.hopper.de; Brüsseler Strasse 26; s €80-270, d €120-295; ) A waxen monk welcomes you to this former monastery whose 49 rooms sport eucalyptus floors, cherry furniture and marble baths along with lots of little pampering touches. The sauna and bar, both in the vaulted cellars, are great places for reliving the day’s exploits.

Other recommendations:

Hotel Leonet (Map; 272 300; www.leonetkoeln.de; Rubensstrasse 33; s €65-160, d €85-225; ) Modern hotel with good-sized rooms and extensive wellness area.

Lint Hotel (Map; 920 550; www.lint-hotel.de; Lintgasse 7; s/d €85/129; ) Cute, contemporary and eco-conscious (solar-panelled roof) hotel in the heart of the Altstadt.

TOP END

Hopper Hotel St Antonius (off Map; 166 00; www.hopper.de; Dagobertstrasse 32; s €105-290, d €175-315; Ebertplatz; ) History and high-tech mix nicely at this posh retreat with plenty of eye candy for the style-conscious. The romantic courtyard garden and small wellness area in the brick-vaulted cellar are great bliss-out spots. Main drawback: the bland setting near the Hauptbahnhof.

Hotel Im Wasserturm (Map; 200 80; www.hotel-im-wasserturm.de; Kaygasse 2; r €236-385, breakfast €28; ) This is an extremely classy designer hotel cleverly converted from an old water tower, south of Neumarkt.

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Eating

Cologne’s multiculturalism lets you take a culinary journey around the world. Rhenish specialities and classic German food are best sampled in the beer halls (Click here).

La Bodega (Map; 257 3610; Friesenstrasse 51; tapas €2.20-5.70; 5pm-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat) It’s always fiesta time at this buzzy cantina with its cosy vaulted cellar and romantic courtyard.