Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [500]
Engelbät (Map; 246 914; Engelbertstrasse 7; crepes €2.50-7.50; 11am-1am) This cosy restaurant-pub is famous for its habit-forming crepes, which come in 30 varieties – sweet, meat or vegetarian. Also popular for breakfast (served until 3pm).
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FOOLS, FLOATS & REVELRY
Carnival in Cologne is one of the best parties in Europe and a thumb in the eye of the German work ethic. Every year at the onset of Lent (late February/early March), a year of painstaking preparation culminates in the ‘three crazy days’ – actually more like six.
It all starts with Weiberfastnacht, the Thursday before Ash Wednesday, when women rule the day (and do things like chop off the ties of their male colleagues/bosses). The party continues through the weekend, with more than 50 parades of ingenious floats and wildly dressed lunatics dancing in the streets. By the time it all comes to a head with the big parade on Rosenmontag (Rose Monday), the entire city has come unglued. Those still capable of swaying and singing will live it up one last time on Shrove Tuesday before the curtain comes down on Ash Wednesday.
‘If you were at the parade and saw the parade, you weren’t at the parade’, say the people of Cologne in their inimitable way. Translated, this means that you should be far too busy singing, drinking, roaring the Carnival greeting ‘Alaaf!’ and planting a quick Bützchen (kiss) on the cheek of whoever strikes your fancy, to notice anything happening around you. Swaying and drinking while crammed like sardines in a pub, or following other costumed fools behind a huge bass drum leading to God-only-knows-where, you’ll be swept up in one of the greatest parties the world knows.
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Metzgerei & Salon Schmitz (Map; 139 5577; dishes €4-10; Aachener Strasse 28; 10am-late) No matter whether you prefer sidling up to the long bar or grabbing an ultra-comfy sofa in the retro lounge, Schmitz is a perfect pit stop for relaxed chats over coffee or cocktails. If hunger strikes, pop next door to Metzgerei Schmitz, a deli in a former butcher’s shop.
Alcazar (Map; 515 733; Bismarckstrasse 39; snacks €4-9, mains €7-17; noon-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-3am Sat, 5pm-2am Sun) This is the kind of place that never goes out of fashion, thanks to its winning combination of freshly prepared international dishes, unpretentious ambience and chirpy service. No food service in the afternoon.
Feynsinn (Map; 240 9210; Rathenauplatz 7; lunch €7.50, dinner mains €10-17; 10am-1am) What used to be a small cafe famous for its eccentric glass-chard chandelier has morphed into a well-respected restaurant where organic ingredients are woven into sharp-flavoured dishes. Owners have even started to raise their own pigs and cattle!
Bagutta (Map; 212 694; Heinsbergstrasse 20a; mains around €20, 3-/4-/5-course menu €32/37/42; 6-11pm Wed-Mon) Leagues of local loyalists keep this knick-knack-filled charmer hopping. Do as they do: ignore the menu and just ask chef Stefan Bierl to put together a ‘surprise menu’. With potential items including saffron risotto with scallops or guinea fowl with kohlrabi and chorizo stir-fry, you won’t be disappointed.
Osman 30 (off Map; 5005 2080; Im Mediapark 8; 3-course menu €44; 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 6pm-3am Fri & Sat, 11am-7pm Sun; Christoph-Strasse/Mediapark) The setting alone of this made-to-impress restaurant on the 30th floor of the KölnTurm is spectacular, but fortunately the Mediterranean food can hold its own with the views. Cap your meal with libations served in the wine salon with its stylish white leather armchairs. Reservations essential.
Other fine eating options:
Falafel Salam (Map; 240 2933; Zülpicher Platz 7; falafels €2.50-5; 11.30am-2am or later) The mother of all Cologne falafel snack bars.
Supa Salad (Map; 648 746; Gertrudenstrasse 33; mains €4-6.50; 10am-8pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm